Puerto Days

Our first week in Puerto Escondido has gone according to plan.  Walk, relax, eat, read, swim, nap, beach, sunset cocktails, dinner, sometimes music - sometimes Netflix’s, sleep, and repeat. 

Sunset From Our B&B Palapa - Is that a "Green Flash" I see?

The first few days were spent close to our Zandoyo B&B’s pool.  Puerto Escondido is at 12 degrees latitude.  This is a long way south for us and the heat takes some getting used to.  I spent the early days dripping with sweat while Deborah developed a noticeable sheen.

Most Days Are a High of 30C & a Low of 21C

Tony is our host here at the Zandoyo.  He is originally from Saltspring Island in B.C. and still owns the Saltspring Tribune newspaper there.  His wife is Mexican and they live here full time.  The B&B is only one of his business endeavours.  He also owns the Mexico News Daily.  It is an electronic newspaper that publishes all the news of Mexico in English.  It is relatively new and currently has over 300,000 subscribers.  He employs writers throughout the country to provide written factual and commentary accounts. 

Relaxing Lunch at Zicatela

The one significant change from our earlier Puerto visits is an increase in our walking.  I returned home after the last visit and had to dig deep into the closet for my fat pants.  It took a significant amount of time before I could return to my regular cloths.  We both arrived this year carrying more excess than either of us wanted after a very tasty but heavy Butter Baking Christmas season.

We are committed to walking on this trip.  We have been setting our alarm clock for 7 am and are out the door for a 6 to 7 km. walk before breakfast.  I am not an early morning person but after the first few days I am actually up before the alarm.  It is a balmy 21 degrees at that early hour and it makes for a very pleasant walk.  Fingers-crossed, we won’t gain and possibly even lose some butter weight.

Walking Around Downtown Puerto

No Excavator in Sight on this Pipeline Project.

Markets Opening on Our Morning Walks

We Think the Sign Maker Meant "In" the Cup

Deborah had a full-day outing with sister Rita.  Rita & Mike gifted her a Mexykan Cooking class for her upcoming birthday.  Their host instructor was Chef Tony.  Tony is an American born Kansas native with Mexican heritage, now living in Puerto Escondido.  He was trained in Kansas and in addition to being an expert in Mexican cuisine, he is also a bit of a chili specialist.  He has a deep knowledge of the various types of chilies used in Mexican cooking and is adept at using the Scoville Scale. The scale measures the pungency (amount of heat) a specific chili (or other spicy food) produces.

The lesson group met for breakfast at the Mercado Comida for a breakfast.

Huevos, Salsa, Black Beans for Breakfast Washed down with a Beetroot & Orange Smoothie

The actual lesson started at the local market to learn about, and purchase the ingredients for the lesson recipes.  The Puerto Mercado is typical of smaller Mexican towns and is very colourful on weekend market days.

Always Important to Keep the Flies Off!

Dried Crickets

Chef Tony

After the market the group reconvened at Chef Tony’s private home just around the corner from our B&B to prepare (and eat) the various dishes.

Salsa Verde

Fresh Tuna

Tuna Swimming in Mole

The day ended with everyone enjoying the prepared meal and a few drinks.

Winter Escape

Deborah and I are off on a Winter Escape.  Our basement suite renters are keeping an eye on the house, and Melanie & Stuart are taking care of Abby the Cat.  We are leaving the rain, sleet, ice storms, and snow for the sunny climes of southern Mexico.  We don’t have a firm itinerary but intend to combine warm beach visits with cultural interludes in Mexico’s many historic towns and cities.  We think we will be in the sun for at least six weeks.

We began our travel day early with a taxi ride from home to catch the Westcoast Express train in Mission.  An hour later we were on the Skytrain in Vancouver for a quick stop over to visit Holly and grandson Nash.  From there we hopped a cab to the airport.

We encountered our first interesting bit of intrigue at the airport.  Deborah had acquired some fancy new credit cards complete with lots of shiny bits and silver trim.  Rumour had it these new cards would get us into the Maple Leaf Lounge so we could wile away our waiting hours before boarding eating, drinking and lounge chair relaxing for free.  Our hopes were temporarily dashed when the check-in attendant told us the card wouldn’t work for the lounge because we weren’t flying on points.  Undaunted we gave the lounge a try regardless. We simply presented ourselves like we assumed we would gain entry.  The gatekeeper took the card information and entered into her computer.  She was a little embarrassed when the computer wouldn’t accept the info.  She tried again.  She was flustered and was clearly feeling sorry for keeping us waiting.  Deborah said, “its you and not us … correct?”.  The gatekeeper assured us it was a computer problem and waved us in (but kept the boarding pass).  Eventually she found us in the lounge but had already tucked into a free meal.  She apologized and explained to us that in fact, we were not eligible for entry.  Deborah has limited entry status but none for me.  She apologized for the policy and explained that for this time only, … we could stay.

We enjoyed a quick five-hour, non-stop flight and watching the sunset somewhere over southern Texas.  We flew Air Rouge.  I know, previous blog posts had me swearing we would never fly Rouge again.  Their minimalist service is not something to brag about.  BUT the two of us flew non-stop from Vancouver to Mexico City for less than $600 all in.  We couldn’t give it a miss.  We were prepared this time with the Rouge Entertainment app on our cell phones and Ipad.  Without your own devices and appropriate apps, Rouge provides NO entertainment.

We arrived in Mexico City and spent the overnight in a nearby Aeropuerto Fiesta airport hotel.

The next morning we caught our 11 am Aeromar flight and arrived in Puerto Escondido at 12:30.  Sister Rita and Mike were there to pick us up and whisked us away to our home for the next two weeks, Sandoyo B&B.  Tony, the owner, is originally from Saltspring Island in B.C. but lives in Puerto year round.  Cooked breakfast is included and we are the only guests here.  There is a beautiful pool for lounging and is only three blocks from the beach and two from the main restaurant area. 

I see a routine developing quickly.  Morning walks, pool time, beaches in the afternoon, sunset cocktails, followed by eating in the many fine restaurants Puerto has to offer. 

Naxos

Our European Adventure is coming to an end.  The last 25 days have flown by.  I am making this last blog entry riding in a Hellenic Seaways High Speed Ferry from Naxos back to Athens.  The journey takes three hours and forty minutes.  The catamaran ferry is much more luxurious and comfortable than anything in the B.C. Ferries fleet.  Free strong Wi-Fi, full restaurant and bar service, and plush seats that recline for those who want to nap.

Our time in Naxos was most enjoyable.  It is more suited to our style than Santorini.  The lifestyle is still touristy but without the large numbers and hustle of the more popular island.  Prices are correspondingly lower than our last stay.  Cold beer on Santorini was Four Euro while on Naxos it was two-fifty.  Our four-night stay cost only 296 Euros, including laundry service and full breakfast. 

Things Are A Little Laid Back on Naxos

Salt Taffy Pull

Just One More Sunset

Hotel Delfini - of course, Kostas took Pic for Us

The Hotel Delfini only has a one star rating but the service was closer to five.  Our host Kostas was outstanding.  He could not do enough for us.  He was always there to greet us returning to the hotel and even offered complimentary beer, coffee or ice cream multiple times.  Kostas went above and beyond when Deborah inadvertently left her hotel key in one of the local shops.  The shopkeeper phoned Kostas and he ran up to the shop, retrieved the key, and searched the beach until he found me to ensure I had access to the room.  When we were leaving he packed our bags into his car and drove them to the ferry dock, so we could enjoy one last leisurely walk through the town and seafront before departing the island.

Our routine didn’t vary much from Santorini.  We enjoyed the sunshine, walks through the historic core of the village, pre-dinner drinks, great meals, hikes, sunsets, and gelatos before retiring for the evening.

All Greek To Me!

Naxos Salad

Chicken Pasta

Bacon Wrapped Scallops and Risotto

Our first day was spent exploring Naxos Town.   An ancient arch built by the Venetians in the 6th century B.C marks the harbour.  The Venetians started an edifice dedicated to the goddess Apollo but never finished.  Over time everything was pulled down except the arch.  Speculation suggests it was simply too difficult to destroy by ensuing conquers.  The town itself has an ancient core and parts of the original walls are still visible when walking the rabbit warren of narrow alleyways.

Naxos Town

Calamari Anyone

Fisherman Selling His Catch

Day Two was an adventure in quad travel.  We were going to rent motor scooters but Kostas was very concerned about our safety.  He strongly recommended against it.  He said the locals were not good enough drivers to not hit us.  He felt the quads were more visible and that we had a greater chance of survival.  We spent 23 Euros each (plus gas) for a full day on the road.  We tried following maps but soon lost interest and simply went exploring in the mountains.  We stopped for lunch at Chalki, a small village in the hills before descending to the seashore and a return to town.  Good fun and it did not prove too dangerous.

Last Minute Instructions and Prayer

We Soon Tossed the Map

Lunch in Chalki

Day Three involved a hike.  We walked eight kilometres along beach and roads to Arsenio.  We were surprised to find the village’s only two restaurants closed for the summer.  It seems the local proprietors close shop in the summer to relocate their businesses to the seashore to better serve the tourists.  We did find a bakery and a local meat/cheese shop that was willing to provide slices of each for our sandwiches.  We had a picnic under a tree in the churchyard before Dianne, Warren, Deborah and I called a taxi to take us back to Naxos town while the rest walked back.  The beach was only 50 meters from our hotel and we enjoyed the rest of the afternoon sipping beers on the beach.

Only Cruise Ship in our Four Days

Prickly Pear Cactus

Bandanna For Sunburned Scalp

Unplanned Picnic

We are now returning to the Metropolis Hotel in Athens for our final night in Greece.  

Greece has been well worth the trip.  History, culture and antiquities are deeply embedded in every experience.  The Greeks are clearly struggling economically but that hasn’t seemed to deter the generally positive nature of the people themselves.