Day Two in Buenos Aires

Day two in Buenos Aires was much like the first but a warmer 28 degrees.  After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we rejoined the Hop On bus tour of the city.  We still had one remaining line to travel to visit a few remaining neighbourhoods. 

We continue to be struck by how many mature trees this city has in both its parks and boulevards.  These are not new trees but by Deborah’s estimation over 100 years old.

The Covered Roof on the Hop On Was Appreciated Today!

Today’s tour took us along the Rio de la Plata (or River Plate in English).  The Plata is the body of water separating Argentina from Uruguay.  Some say it isn’t a river at all but a gulf.  Regardless, it is muddy like a river but you can’t see to the other side.  If it is a river, Wiki states that it is the widest river in the world.  Uruguay is 220 kilometres across the water from Buenos Aires.

Our bus took us along the river shore and into the neighbourhoods of Palermo, Belgrano and others I can’t remember. I’ll let Deborah’s pictures tell the remaining story.

After we got back we returned to the hunt for money from the elusive currency filled ATMs.  The first few we tried didn’t even let us try.  They were locked behind closed doors.  We did get lucky on the third try.  Currency conversion is confusing here.  We pay different rates depending on where we are.  I guess when hard currency is in short supply the rates vary.

You Figure Out What They Pay Here for Gas

We didn’t go out for happy hour today.  After wandering through the air-conditioned shopping mall nearby, we bought a bottle of wine, beer, olives, pickles, grapes and crackers for a sundown in our hotel.  (Beer cost continues to be confusing.  I bought a large Stella can of beer in a corner store.  The label stated 95 pesos – I am thinking about $3.50 but when I went to the till it was 50 pesos, closer to $1.50.  The Argentine lack of understanding my Spanish left me in the dark as to why.

Bikinis and Christmas Trees - Southern Hemisphere Style

30 Degrees C & Christmas is Near

Happy Hour in Our Room

Hop On Hop Off City Survey

Blue sky, 26 degrees, birds singing, trees adorned with that new leaf green, and colourful blossoms everywhere, it must be spring time in Buenos Aires. 

 

Today was a travel recovery day and  the start of sight seeing. 

After a leisurely breakfast we took a trip to a nearby HSBC bank ATM in search of cash.  After an unsuccessful attempt we spoke to a bank employee and he informed us that none of their ATMs had any cash.  He said ATMs without money are not unusual in Argentina.  With an Argentinean peso only worth 4 cents, you need a lot of walking around pesos to get by.  He suggested we keep walking the banking district and keep trying.  We finally found an ATM with cash.  It cost us $10 Canadian to get 4000 pesos (about $148).  Even if a machine has money it won’t give you more than 4000 at a time.

Buenos Aires is located on the western shore of the estuary of the River Plata on the South American continent’s south-eastern coast.  The city’s name can be translated as “fair winds” or “good airs”.  They say that Buenos Aires is the most European city outside of Europe.  I’m not sure who “they” are but we would agree.  Immigrants and trade from all over Europe have had a lasting influence on the area.  

Our hotel folks directed us to the nearest Hop On – Hop Off bus stop.  We purchased our tickets (990 pesos each) for 24 hours of service.  As is our usual style, we never did hop off.  Quite frankly it was a little overwhelming.  Buenos Aires has 14 million folks spread over 48 distinct neighbourhoods and I think we rode through every one of them.  Some date back to the beginning in 1536 while others are ultra modern day.

I’ll let the pictures tell the story.

You know When You're in Cattle Country - Cowhide Sales on the Street.

Buenos Aires - A City of Parks

La  Boca Arts Neighborhood

Oldest Continuous Cafe in City - 1858

We ended our first evening with a meal Argentine style.  Many restaurants don't open until 8 pm so we enjoyed a drink at the street side bar during happy hour.  Another lesson learned.  We ordered two drinks thinking they were happy hour two for ones.  We were surprised when receiving the bill that indeed the drinks are half price but each person is charged a minimum of two drinks each.  I ended up drinking a low cost $7 Canadian beer.  Buenos Aires is not Mexico City.  You can find a $2 beer but it will be in a can on a grocery store shelf.  A 500 cc beer in the restaurant cost 120 pesos (around $4 Canadian).

We dined around 9 pm with the locals and retired for the evening.

Arrived in Buenos Aries

We made it.  It was a long day.  We left Vancouver at 11:15 pm, Tuesday night and checked into the Loi Suites Recoleta Hotel in Buenos Aries’ historic centre at 2:30 am on Thursday.  The trip had its ups and downs as most travel days do.

We usually learn a lesson or two each time we travel.  Deborah produced the first body of learning.  We were both due for a booster to our Dukoral stomach issues vaccine.  It is taken in liquid form at home and is good for six months of travel.  We decided to take it on the day of travel to stretch the effectiveness to another trip to Mexico next February.  I took mine without issue but Deborah had a different experience.  The Dukoral vaccine interacted with another medication she was taking producing an unpleasant result.   Suffice to say that as I was sipping beer and eating pretzels in Vancouver’s Maple Leaf Lounge, Deborah was developing a personal relationship with the Lounge restroom.

Had Never Seen One Used Before

We have all seen the neat little paper bags stored in the seat pocket of the seat in front of you on an airline but how many of us have witnessed one being used.  In her usual classy way, Deborah was able to fill a bag, while seated in a crowded plane without anyone seeing or hearing the event.  Thankfully as we landed in Montreal after a five-hour flight, all was good again.  Lesson:  do such things the day before travel.

The flight to Montreal was good but due to sleeping (on my part) and unwellness on Deborah’s, we were unable to take full advantage of the Business Class offerings.

Montreal at Dawn - Green Field & Fall Colours

 We had a quick turnaround in Montreal.  Our Panama Copa flight boarded 10 minutes before we landed.  We had a long hike from our gate to the next but made it just in time for takeoff.  Of course, we weren’t too worried as our bags were already checked in for all three legs of the journey.

Montreal to Panama City was uneventful and the plane was old, offering little in the way of amenities.  Coming into Panama did offer beautiful sights of high mountains, lush green jungles, and sandy beaches.  I think Panama could be a place to visit in the future.

Looks Like a Place to Visit

The Panama City to Buenos Aries flight took six and a half hours.  The plane was new and the service excellent.  The Panamanian Atlas beer was cold and the food hot and tasty.

We arrived in Buenos Aries and had a smooth transition through Immigration and Customs.  No questions were asked but we were photographed and fingerprinted.  Our prearranged ride to the hotel was there to greet us with his “KEYS” sign in hand.

We tucked into our Loi Suites Recoleta Hotel the historic core of the city around 2:30 am.  We were up at 9 am and after enjoying a sumptuous breakfast we are off to explore the city.

Off to South America

We are off on another adventure.  The target area this time is the southern half of South America.  This part of the world has always intrigued me with its European influences and the rugged beauty of its landscapes.  Deborah is more interested in dancing the Tango in Buenos Aries and sipping wine in Mendoza’s vineyards.

We are off on the red-eye out of Vancouver with a stop in Montreal and then onto Panama City.  There will be a quick change of planes before completing the final leg to Buenos Aries.  The nineteen hours of flying time will be somewhat ameliorated by flying business class through our accumulated Aeroplan points.

Once we have landed and spent a few days exploring Buenos Aries we will fly to Mendoza to drink wine before boarding a bus for one of the world’s most scenic drives through the Andes to Santiago, Chile.  After a few more days of exploring we will start  on our very first cruise.  Thanks to Kal’s travel work we are booked on a fourteen day Holland America cruise.  We thought we were going to put off cruising until our later years but you can’t get to the fiords of Patagonia or the Straits of Magellan by driving a car, so here goes.  We will we sail around the horn of South America, on to the Falkland Islands, stop in Montevideo Uruguay, and a return to Buenos Aries.

It feels a little different leaving home this time.  Bryn, Holly, and Nash are going to live in our home for a month before taking possession of their new home in December.  It has been grand waking up each morning hearing the little voice of your grandchild singing at the breakfast table and calling for his grandparents to get up and start the day.  We have mixed feelings as we will miss Nash dearly but realize Bryn and Holly need time on their own as they adjust to new jobs and a town to call home.

We will try to keep up the travel blog as best we can depending on time and internet connections.

Mexico City

Our Hotel in the Historic City Centre

It's been awhile since I sat down to write anything.  I don't know if i am getting lazy or that we have been too busy.  

We did get off to an interesting start.  As we were riding in the back of a taxi to downtown, we experienced a Mexico City Earthquake.  Before we twigged to what was happening the taxi driver indicated to us to be calm.  He stopped in the middle of the street and we saw people streaming from the buildings and running to the centre of the street.  As a siren wailed we saw the look of fear in their faces.  Clearly the memories of last October's major quake, that resulted in hundreds of dead and injured, were still clear in their minds.  The trees swayed and we bounced up and down in the back seat of the car for well over a minute.  We didn't see any immediate damage but as we continued on to the hotel many people remained standing outside and appeared unsure whether it was safe to return.  Much of the historic portion of the city is built on fill.  The Spanish filled in lake that first attracted the indigenous settlers to the area so the city is prone to earthquake damage.

Our goal during our four days in Mexico City was to soak in as much culture as we could. We have been to the city before but most of the time it has been a short visit while we have been in transit to other places.

We have toured the city in the past by bus and bicycle.  This time we were determined to walk.  Walk we did, averaging between 7 and 8 kilometres each day (measured thanks to Deborah’s fitness type bit.) 

In this post I have let the pictures tell the story.

Our first stop was across the street to the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption – Catedral Metropolitana de la Assuncion.  Apart from the art and architecture the interesting piece of the visit was looking at the giant pendulum suspended in the centre of the church.  The Cathedral is sinking (remember eh lake) and the markings on the floor below the pendulum indicate the amount of building movement over the years.

Located on the Historic Zocalo

The Pendulum

One of Two Huge Pipe Organs

The Other One

Marks the Buildings Movements Over Decades

The Zocalo Constitution Square – Zocalo Plaza de la Constitucion is always the centre of some kind of celebration or protest.  This visit was no different.

Views From our Hotel Breakfast Terrace

Indigenous Dancers in the Square

Right next door to the Cathedreal is the National Palace – Palacio Nacional.  It was once the seat of government but is now a Museum of Culture and the headquarters for the National Army.  We may have found an answer to why every Mexican reacts with a shudder and throws their arms around themselves when you mention you come from Canada.  In the Museum of Cultures there is a Canada section.  It is devoted to snow and explains that Canadians live in snow 5 to 6 months of the year.  It is dedicated to all the things we do to embrace the cold in our culture.  I guess none of the anthropologists ever visited the lower mainland of B.C.  Then again, maybe they did this year.

Original Meeting Room of the Congress

The Courtyard Displays the Vegetation of Mexico

Has Many Murals by Diego Rivera

The Murals Depict the History of Mexico's Culture

Posing In The Canada Cultural Section

After a long walk we discovered the Fine Arts Palace – Palacio Bellas Artes.  
This is a beautiful building that serves as a performing arts centre.  Unfortunately there wasn't a ballet to attend.  Deborah is insistent that next time...

The Pop Art Museum – Museo de Arte Popular was a short visit.  A tribute to the Bug.  Volkswagen stopped making these in 2002.

A visit to the National Art Gallery was a hit.  Not only was the fine art worth a look, the building itself was inspiring.  Definitely worth the visit.

Painting of Mexico City's Beginnings

Montezuma Meets Ortez (Before Ortez Pissed Him Off and He Promised Revenge)

Interior Courtyard Shots

Getting Better With Selfies

We couldn't miss a few pics about dining.

Dining at El Cardinal 

Not Many Gringos

We did take a tour out of the city to view the Teotihuacan Pyramids (the Sun and the Moon) located just outside of the city.  Hector was our guide for the day and our party included a couple from Victoria, another from San Antonio, two from Minnesota, and a couple of young women from Dallas. 

The Grey Line Charter

Stop at the Tequila Store

Yes That Is a Worm

That is the Sun Pyramid in Background

From the Top of the Sun

Hanging Over the Edge

And That is the Moon Pyramid

Ever Present Trinket Sellers 

It is a Long Way Down From that Step

I can't end this entry without confessing to being possibly scammed.  I was sitting in a Starbucks waiting for Deborah while she got her nails done.  I overheard a well dressed man speaking on his cell phone with a British accent.  He was speaking to someone regarding the loss of his wallet and not having any identification.  When he was done speaking a Mexican English-speaking man approached him and offered to help get him in touch with the British consulate.  The man explained that he was just speaking to them and they couldn't help him.  He explained to the Mexican man that his wallet was stolen and that his passport was locked in his rental house safe in La Paz, a long distance away.  He thanked the Mexican man but said he didn't see how he could help.  I approached him and asked if there was anything I could do.  I felt sorry for him.  I am usually a distrusting individual and in this case I determined that I felt sorry for this guy regardless.  If he was telling the truth, I wanted to help.  If he was scamming, it was elaborate (including a doctor's bag full of medical instruments), and if he was that desperate for money, I wanted to help.  Long story short, I am out a few hundred as I shelled out for bus fare to return to his rental house in La Paz.  Days later and we have still not received an email.  I guess, lesson learned.