Thursday, 20 February 2020

The Great Ocean Road


The Coastal Route is the Great Ocean Road


We bid adieu to Gord and Margo in the Launceston Airport as they boarded a flight to Sydney and then on to Kiama to rejoin their family.

Our flight to Melbourne took a little less than an hour and we were greeted by sunny skies and 26 degrees.  We picked up our new Holden Trailblazer rental without any problems and were soon out of the airport and on our way southwest to Torquay for lunch and the start of our Great Ocean Road experience.  Just a few kilometer more we arrived at Anglesea for our first overnight.


Holden Trailblazer - Our Chariot For The Tour




We checked into the Anglesea Ocean Resort in the early afternoon and enjoyed the sun before walking around the town.  Deborah and I took a stroll to the beach while Randall and Doreen headed inland to find the Anglesea Golf and Country Club.

The Beach At Anglesea


Our original plan was to golf with the Kangaroos the following day.  The course is gorgeous and heavily populated with kangaroos.  Unfortunately, we woke the next morning to grey skies and pounding rain.  The thunder was so loud Deborah thought a plane had crashed into the resort.  We had to settle for buying souvenir golf shirts and dinner at the club.  That evening, the club president signed us in and the folks could not have been nicer.  We had a window table overlooking the 18 hole and were thoroughly entertained by the kangaroos as they hopped and munched around the green.

Official Guest Of The Anglesea Golf Club



First Tee Box


Don't Hit To The Fringe


Roast Beef Dinner At The Club



Note The Tail Of The Joey Hanging Out Of Mom's Pouch



This is a good time for another weather comment.  Since our arrival, all the bush fires that had dominated international media almost immediately ceased to exist.  We brought the rain.  Sadly it hasn’t really abated and parts of the country are now underwater.

We have had a shower or two almost every day.  I have lost count of the number of times I have quoted the movie immortal Captain Ron, “It's just a squall, they come on ya fast and they leave ya fast.”  One minute your cooking in the sun and the next your running for cover.

Due to the weather, we jumped in the car and explored the first portion of the Great Ocean Road.  We went as far west as Loren, stopping along the way to take in the coastal scenes before stopping for lunch.  Our first stop in Loren was to the Visitor Center to learn the story of the road.  The project began in 1919, as a make-work project for returning veterans.  The men used picks, shovels, and dynamite to create a link between the many fishing villages along the coast in the hopes of bringing people to the area.


After Driving 3 Hours - Now They Tell Us!


After an amble about the town, we drove into the hills for a short hike to the Erskine Falls.  It was well worth the effort and safe as long as you stayed on the established paths.  Lots of “Beware of Snakes” signs.

"Snakes" - A Very Effective Way Of Keeping The Public On The Path



Jungle Rainforest


Erskine Falls



It Was A Long Climb Up To The Parking Lot


Randall's Wombat Nest Protection Stance


After returning to Loren we took a walk on the Long Pier and were treated to a show by a squadron of Manta Rays.  I wondered why there were so many gathered in one place until I witnessed a restaurant staff member dumping seafood waste off the pier.

Loren's Long Pier



Manta Reef Ray




After another night's sleep in Anglesea, we set off again to explore the full GOR.  It was my first time at the wheel and it took my full concentration not to get us killed while driving the twisty, narrow road, carved into the cliffs.  All this in addition to driving on the wrong side of the road in a strange vehicle.

To avoid repeating myself with the descriptors of the magnificence of the vistas, I’ll let the pictures tell the story.

We stopped for lunch and a walk-about at Apollo Bay.

One Of Many Beach Gathering Places Of Last Resort


Then off to Otway National Park with a quick pull over to sight Koalas in Gum Trees before visiting the historic Otway Lighthouse.

They Are Very Shy & Hard To Spot


Road To Lighthouse


Have I Mentioned Snake Warnings?




Otway Lighthouse - 1848


Deborah & Doreen



The highlight of the GOR was the 12 Apostles.  These natural edifices are the result of erosion of the limestone by the angry wind and seas of the Bass Strait.  We stopped at the Gibson Stairs, the only place you can access the beach and hiked down to get a greater sense of the scale.  We also stopped just down the road to get more pics and visit the Apostle Centre before another squall drove us off the cliffs.


Did I Mention That There Were Snakes


A Few Of The Apostles



From The Beach In A Squall


And Then The Sun Came Out








To finish an already long day we headed inland through cattle country before cutting back to the sea to our destination at Warrnambool.  We saw some interesting mass gatherings of cows in confined paddocks and wondered what it was all about when Doreen astutely observed, “it must be how they produce condensed milk!”

Condensed Milk Herd


We arrived in Warrnambold, checked into the Midtown Hotel, had a few drinks, a late dinner and then said good night to a long day.

Sunday, 16 February 2020

Touring the West & East Tamer Valley

Dotterel Lighthouse - Low Head - 1833



Our Walk To The Lighthouse

We have enjoyed our days in north-eastern Tasmania.  Our home in Low Head has proved to be a great jumping-off spot for touring the region. 

As you might have noticed from the pictures, Tasmanian weather is not what folks usually associate with summer in Australia.  Its southern latitudes make for a much more moderate climate.  We have had days of 25 degrees but many on 20 to 21.  There has been some rain but the squalls usually last less than 15 to 20 minutes.  Our Low Head visit has provided some of the sunniest days on the trip so far.  I can certainly see why many mainland Australians move or holiday here.

We spent the first day enjoying the local sights.  The walk from Low Head to George Town covered about 6 km and included both residential and tidewater trail.  George Town has its own historic sights and a fine restaurant, 1069, on the main street.


George Town Pub For Lunch



A Freighter Slipping Past Our Front Door Bound For George Town


Headed Up To The Lookout



View to Low Head

The second day was a driving tour back down to Launceston before turning west to explore the West Tamer Valley with stops in Hagley, Deloraine, Sheffield, Latrobe and a quick pass through the northern ferry port of Devonport.  Just before we left Randall was bitten by a Tasmanian Jack Jumper Ant.  We checked with the local neighbour and when we found out only 2% die from the bite, we decided to roll the dice and carried on.

The Launceston stop was at my request to visit the National Automobile Museum.  It houses a large collection of vintage cars and motorcycles and is well worth the visit.  I have included an inordinate number of pictures because I like them and well ... I can.





1971 Honda 750 - My Teen Years Dream Bike



1928 Morris Minor - My Highschool Car Was 1959




A Classic Delahaye





Hagley, Deloraine, Railton, and Sheffield are historic towns originally established as farm service centers but now sport arts and craft shops in addition.  Our clear favourite was Deloraine with its main street of buildings dating back to the middle 1800s.  The drive itself was well worth it as we meandered through the Meander Valley.  I almost bought a great looking cycling shirt commemorating the Valleys Scenic ride but once again confirmed that older bodies require extra-large shirts.


Railton Topiary




Topiary Starter Kit


Deloraine Shops & Hotel





Sheffield Murals



Sheffield Lunch - Twisted Shrimp In Pastry


Latrobe was home to the Anvers chocolate factory.  Since it was Valentine's Day we sampled and bought chocolates along with our ice cream cones.



Ready For Easter





Day three saw us drive back down to Launceston to drop Randall and Doreen for further city touring just before we drove the wine route east to Lilydale.  There are many wineries on the route and stopped at the Leaning Church Winery.  We planned a break in Scotsdale but discovered Tasmania’s country towns close up shop on Saturdays.  This region is cattle country.  The scenery was dramatic with large farms stretched across rolling hills. 



Leaning Church Winery - Great View, So So Wine

Just when I was beginning to think I would never see a Tiger snake in the wild, one appeared for a photo shoot.  He was trapped in the middle of the road with cars whizzing by on both sides.  The poor guy was striking his fangs at the passing cars without success.  It was all we could do to keep Deborah in the car as her zeal to get the perfect shot took over.  Margo got this shot from safely inside the car.



A Good Size 4 Footer About to Strike Our Car


We finished the day with a twilight walk among the Fairy Penguins just down the road from our house.  Our group was escorted through the dunes as the little guys returned to their burrows after a day of dining at sea.  The Fairys are among the shyest and are the smallest of the 18 subspecies of penguins.

You Can Only See Fairys At Night

Our last day involved a foursome tennis match with Gord and Margo before heading off to Beauty Point in West Tamer to see the platypuses and echidnas at Platypus House.  The platypus and echidnas are the only two mammals that lay eggs and suckle their young.

Deborah Finally Got Her Game In




Echidna - Don't Pet Him Backwards


We are off on an 8:45 flight to Melbourne for the start of our next leg.  In hindsight, one could spend much more than 10 days exploring Tasmania.  It is like a vast nature reserve punctuated with historical gems populated by very welcoming down to earth folks.  Well worth the visit!