Trekking Day Three & Four - Pienza and Montepulciano

Much too busy (and tired) to write the last couple of days. 

As I write this I am sitting in the Albergo Duomo Hotel situated within the fortified walls of the hill city, Montepulciano established in the 900's.  The hotel served as accommodation and film location for the first vampire movie Blue Moon.  Have never seen the movie but can easily understand its allure.  Next door is the Museo della Torture.  

This is a rest and recuperation day.  It also marks the end or our group travel.

Day Three was the most serious hike of the first three days.  It was a 12 km hilly jaunt from San Quirico D’Orcia to Pienza.  I don’t know what got into us but we were rolling along at a fairly quick pace.  The experienced trekkers say it is normal.  Folks find new adjustments to their packs, adjust their walking gait to the new loads, and simply get stronger after the first two days, or in my case I threw out a shirt.  We left San Quirico D’Orcia at 9:30 am and had over an hour for lunch in an olive orchard.  We arrived at our destination two hours earlier than we planned.  The only downside (upside?) was that with time to kill and had four bottles of wine before pre-dinner drinks in addition to the obligatory liter of beer to end the day’s trek.  

We wandered the old town, met other trekkers and cyclists from around the world and enjoyed a fabulous dinner at the hotel.  Wild Boar was the restaurant specialty.  The only weird part of the evening was that we were so exhausted we were in bed before the children stopped playing in the street outside our room.  Italian little kids stay up much too late on school nights.

Deborah had a small "owie" but it didn't stop her from covering another  30 km.

Harvest Time In The Vineyards.

The final day four hike was the longest of all.  We covered 8 km before climbing and stopping for lunch at Monticchiello.  It was a little out of our way and had some 22% gravel grades but the view and lunch were worth it.  After lunch we covered the final 8 km to Montepulciano.  Evident in the pictures, it was hard slogging on the steep uphill’s but everyone in the group made it without complaint.

Entering Pienza.

Looking Toward Tomorrow's Trail from Pienza.

Leaving Pienza - Start of Day Four 

Very Top of the Hill on the Horizon - Lunch Stop - Monticchiello

Small Winery At Work.

Lunch Break in Monticchiello

Top Of the Hill.

Montepulciano - The End Is In sight.

Harvest Time.

Today marks the end for this travelling group.  Marci and Keith left us before the trekking and today we walked Sam and Cheryl to the Bus Depot and waived good bye as they left for Chiusi.  They are travelling to Rome to meet their daughters flying in from Vancouver.  They will spend the next couple of weeks with them visiting yet even more of Italy.  Tomorrow, Nola & Glen, Phil & Linda, Warren & Diane return to Florence and then on to Vancouver the next day.  We are going to look around today for bus tickets to Chuisi and will find a train to Rome.  Leave for Seattle next Wednesday and home Thursday.

Pretty Much Spent When We Arrived.

Really Big Beers to Close the Final Trekking Chapter.

Last night at the stinky beer table (in our group you are not allowed to shower and change before beers at the end of the work), Glen asked that everyone take a moment and think about what most impressed them on this trip.  The exercise didn’t make it very far around the table when we all realized we shared the same experience.  Everyone agreed that it was the "people" that made the experience so worthwhile.  Folks were most impressed with how well our group functioned.  In a group of 10 or 12 there is bound to be some friction over a two-week period.  In our case there was none.  In addition, there was not one (even minor) complaint from anyone about participating in the physically demanding activities.  Folks led when decisions needed to be made, folks followed when decisions were made.  Everyone displayed willingness at every turn to simply get a long.

Finished our stay in Montepulciano by attending a classical music concert at the Palazzo Ricci.  We listened to Vivaldi, Bach, Mozart, and a bunch of Italian composers' music performed by the European Academy of Music.  Again, not my first choice of music but it was special in the moment.  Deborah found an interesting eatery for dinner and a good time was had by all.

The group chapter is ending but the Italian experience is not over for Deborah and I yet.  Stay tuned; there is more to come.

Trekking Day Two - San Quirico D’Orcia

San Quirico D’Orcia

We had a decision to make before the start of the day in Buonconvento.  It would be a 22 km walk OR we could catch a bus part way and cut the day to 7 km.  It was an easy vote and the bus tickets were purchased.  We bussed to Torrenieri and began our trek.

I finally clued in yesturday that we are walking a small portion of the Via Francigena Trail.  The trail was established in 940 when the Archbishop of Canterbury made a pilgrimage from England to Rome.  He had his scribes note the villages and the pathways taken on the 2000 km journey.  For a few days we are pilgrims.

We met three men today on the trail that had walked from Frankfurt.  Yesturday we met a man that was on a day 30-day walk (850) km from Basel, Switzerland.  He had given himself 8 more days to cover the 200 km to Rome.  We met an Australian couple that were averaging 30 km a day.  Makes us look like turtles.

Today seemed like it would be a shorter walk.  We could see San Quirico across the valley and it seemed so close.  The walk down into the valley and then up to the hilltop for the 7 km hop.

San Quirico is a neat little old town but unlike the others we are now in the grape region and the town is full of wineries, many offering tours and tastings.

Our hotel, Lamora del Poeta was not the best so far.  The room and bed were great but the breakfast was left on the table and we went out.  The real disappointing part was that we arrived at 3 pm and the website said check in was 2 pm.  No one was there.  The sign said to go the grocery store next door but it was closed.  We sat in the street.  An older Italian man walked by and while he spoke only Italian, he made himself understood when he invited the women to come and stay at his place.  His invitation was declined with much nervous laughter.  The shopkeeper across the street came over and told us in broken English that the hotelier couldn’t speak English and would not likely be there until 4:30.  He arrived at 4:45. 

We had a fabulous dinner in a courtyard restaurant.  Dinners have been expectantly good and surprisingly inexpensive.  We don’t usually go the full three courses.  Salads are large and usually around 7 Euros (about $9 Canadian).  Pasta dishes with meat between 6 and 9 Euros, depending on the meat.  We share a salad, each have pasta, and table share bottles of wine.  Last night was the most expensive one to date and it was $32 Euros per couple.

Not the hotel’s fault but Deborah and I had an interesting experience walking home after dinner.  After this length of time, the narrow ally roads/walkways begin to look remarkably the same.  We were behind the group after getting post meal gelatos. It was dark when we arrived at what we thought was the door to the hotel.  It was open a crack and we thought Warren and Dianne had left it open for us.  We walked in and secured the outside door behind us.  I reached for the light switch but it was dark and couldn’t find it.  We thought we knew our way so we climbed the stairs.  We couldn’t find our room or the light switch at the top of the series of switch back stairs.  We started to panic about not finding our room when it struck us both…. We were in the wrong building.  We were in someone’s private home.  We retraced our steps to the downstairs exterior door but it would not open.  The door didn’t have an inside handle.  We huddled in the dark in an ever-increasing state of panic.  We decided one of us had to knock on every door until we found someone to let us out.  As you can imagine, this idea was unappealing for both and I tried again.  This was all done in the pitch black … no lights.  Finally I reached up high and found a chain.  I didn’t know what it was but I just pulled with everything I had and magically the door opened.  Much relieved.  Makes for a good story now but at the time, not so good.

Tomorrow we will have about 12 km to the next stop.

Trekking Day One - Buonconvento

Trekking – Day One

We gathered in front of the hotel at 9:30 am for our ride to the trailhead at the Oliveto Maggiore (a Benedictine Monastery).  It was a 40-minute ride.  Our chauffeurs arrived with an eight passenger mini van and a Mercedes sedan.  Due to Deborah’s propensity to wear pearls for hiking, we were nominated to be the two in the back of the Mercedes.

How Retirees Roll to the Trailhead.

We arrived at the monastery and had a tour around.  The monks create art, sell sunflower oil, and wine.  The Order was founded in the early 1300’s and can boast that Napoleon once dropped by for dinner with his 2000 troops.  I sat in the dining hall and I suspect it hasn’t changed much since Napoleon was there.

We Looked Pretty Fresh at the Start.

The hike itself for about 11 km, with the entire requisite up and down hills necessary in Tuscany.  We travelled on a bit of paved road edge, some farmer's secondary gravel roads, and clay paths through the trees.  It was 28 degrees and humid.  As we crested the hills we were greeted with a cooling breeze and 360 degree vistas of farmland.  We found the views spellbinding, but my words could never do it justice.  Except for the occasional power line, I suspect the vistas haven't changed in centuries.  This part of Italy is famous for its sunflower crops.  It would have been a treat to be here at the end of August when the plowed fields were a blaze of yellow.

Stopped for bread, cheese and a bottle of wine in a farmer’s field at the top of a ridge.

Glen, Nola, & Deborah - Lunch Break.

The Trekking Men - George, Phil, Sam, Glen & Warren

Arrived in the village of Buonconvento at the end of Day One.  I think I have figured out why we are not experiencing any weight loss on this trip.  When we were within a block of our destination, the entire group veered off into a sidewalk bar and we each consumed one-liter bottles of beer in the first five minutes.

Very tired.  I’ll let the pictures tell the story.

Meeting for drinks at 7, dinner to follow in the old walled town.

Siena

Siena

Yesturday, we travelled to Siena.  We took a train back to Bologna, said good-bye to Marci and Keith as they headed to Venice, and switched to a fast train to Florence.  The trip from Bologna to Florence took about 35 minutes and almost all of it was in a tunnel.  We had lunch in a little Florentine Bar.  Our remaining group of ten took every seat in the house and the keeper was pleased.  He ran around taking pictures of us with our own cameras.

Backpacker Roughing It Lunch - Retired Style

We boarded an inter city bus for the final one hour trip up into the mountains to the hilltop ancient city of Siena.  Many of our friends have said it is one of their favourite cities in Tuscany and now I can see why.  It has the beauty and history of Florence but only a fraction of the size.  We are staying at the Hotel Alma Domas, a former seminary located within the walls of the old town.  We are literally in the footings of the Saint Catherine Basilica and have a view of the town’s major cathedral bell tower and dome from our window. 

Off the Bus - Arrived Siena

Down To Hotel

Sam and Cheryl - Thee Doors Down. Everyone had a view.

View From Our Window.

After settling in, we bought some Chianti, cheese, flat bread, olives, plums and figs.  The ten of us settled down to a picnic in our hotel courtyard.  The three bottles disappeared quickly and then it was off in search of dinner.  We are now used to Belvedere dining at 7:30, which makes us part of the early dining crowd in Italy.  Most sidewalk restaurants are fully clear at 7:30 but have long lines at 9:30.  Dinner included more wine and beer with most folks partaking in pizza and salad.  The post dinner walk included a stroll to the Cathedral to see it lit up at night and a meander to the II Campo (old town piazza) for gelato desserts.  The Grand Piazza is really something to see at night.  It isn’t really square at all.  In reality it is more the shape of a slice of pizza with restaurants competing for space along the curved edge, a large fountain in the middle and a huge clock tower at the pointy bit.  At that time of night it was filled with dinners, lovers, and small groups of young and old sitting around listening to music, drinking wine, and smoking.

Cathedral At Night

Gelato.

We wandered the lanes and finished back at our hotel.

Up early for a continental breakfast and off to do the hard tourist work.  We bought all-inclusive Siena Duomo Museum passes.  We saw the Cathedral that includes the greatest number of Renaissance sculptors in one place, the Oratorio that showcases Sienese paintings starting in the 16 century, the Crypt of the Cathedral that is covered in bright coloured frescos, and finally the Panorama dal Facciatone lookout with the most fabulous views of the city and surrounding area.  A warning about the lookout, claustrophobia folks should be aware it is a one-person winding staircase to get there.  It is a long dizzy climb but the view is worth it.

Top Of the World in Tuscany.

Wash Day in Siena.

No Escaping The Hills.

An ally bar for calzone and beer for lunch, back to the hotel for a nap, and reconvened for pre dinner drinks at 6. 

Up early for breakfast tomorrow and a deli trip to buy lunch stuff.  Bus to trail starting point at 9:30 am. 

Let the hiking begin.

Don’t know if there will be Internet.

Cycling Day Six - The Final Ride

Final Ride – Saludecio

Woke up this morning feeling the effects of yesterday’s hill climb and the accumulation of the week’s riding.  Neither of us have done this much riding since we were in our twenties.  As a result, we chose the shortest ride of the day – 53 km to the hill town of Saludecio (yes, it seems all the towns are on the top of hills).  The other choice was 99 km to Urbano.  The week’s riding has definitely provided us with newfound strength and a ton of confidence but I think we were okay with the short hop and look forward to a few days rest.

The ride was great.  Just enough hill climbing (700 meters of elevation change) to make it interesting, the down hills exhilarating, and the vistas most memorable.  Most of the farms have half their crops in and the fields have been turned and readied for fall planting.  When we do stop along the way the silence is almost eerie.  You can almost feel the slow pace of farming life.  The farmhouses appear to be all cut from the same clothe – a combination of beige brick and stone.

Admiring his Bike after another uphill climb.

When we reached Saludecio it seemed like we were the only ones there.  One café was open and soon we had the two baristas on the hop.  Enjoyed our Latte’s (no cappuccinos today) in an outside courtyard overlooking the valley.

Entering Saludecio.

The downhill run was the usual blast and back to the hotel we rolled.  Always back for lunch at 2 pm.  This time our group was the first to arrive and we had first crack at the buffet and tables by the pool.

We returned our bikes to the rental shop.  I loved my bike.  I took pictures of it when we parted.  I felt like I was leaving an old friend.  You have to have a lot of confidence in your bike when you let it freewheel you at 65 km down a mountain road.  I don’t think I’ll ever ride as nice a bike again.  An Italian made “De Rosa King 3”.  They told me if I lost it I would have to pay $3000 Euros.  I don’t think I can afford that expense but I know I will now buy a road bike and clip in shoes.  Yes, I may even wear the spandex under shorts, over.   Hopefully no one I know will have to experience seeing that.  You would think I would have lost weight over this week.  I guess I have been balancing the calorie burns with the buffet table.  Deborah of course is slimmer than even normal.

The De Rosa King

Dinner tonight will be quiet compared to last night.  The hotel had formal seating for all the guests at poolside rather than in the common dining hall.  Each country was recognized.  Canada first due to the greatest numbers.  The DJ played Oh Canada and we all sang our hearts out.  The U.S. was next, followed by Great Britain, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and Austria.  We had a served four-course meal with champagne, red and white wine and cocktails if you chose.  A mostly naked Brazilian Dancer and Fabio the Flame Thrower/Eater/Dancer entertained us.  The hotel staff and owner serenaded the group and dancing to midnight followed.  Deborah might have been the most energetic dancer of us all.

Check out in the morning and then train to Siena for a two-night stay before beginning the trekking to Montepulciano, through Tuscany.

End of Bike Week!

Ciao!  (for a few days)