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Relaxing On The Broken Hill Slag Heap
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There Is Not A Lot Out There
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We got an early start, waved goodbye to Adelaide before joined the A32 north and traveling over 500 km to Broken Hill via the Clare Valley. Our original thought was to tour the Barossa Valley’s vineyards east of Adelaide but it would have taken us too far out of our way. As luck would have it, the Clare Valley was just off our intended route and John our Adelaide tour guide, had told us the Clare is every bit as nice as the Barossa.
We first two hours found us winding our way through picturesque cattle/sheep country and then the vegetation turned to vineyards as we entered the Clare Valley. We only had time for one stop so we chose the Seven Hills Cellars (just past the Door And Kitchen but before the Mad Bastard wineries) because it is the oldest in the valley having been established in 1851. I was vexed as to who was drinking wine at that time until I discovered it is on the same property as a Jesuit Mission. The wine was tasted and wine was bought.
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Not Quite Outback Yet
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We stopped for lunch in Burra on the advice of a local during a pee break. It is a tiny town, nestled in a green valley, and the last stop before entering the outback. Green trees gave way to bunch grass and red dirt. Burra to Broken Hill is about 300 km and for the most part dead straight with only a few curves thrown in to keep you awake. It is desolate and the area has been in drought for two years. Often the highway roadkill is nothing but bones shining in the intense heat. We did have to make one stop along the way to relieve ourselves of lunchtime libations but we had to be quick as the outback flies are fierce and seem intent on burrowing into your ears to make a new home.
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Burra
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Dust Devils And Not Much Else
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We chose Broken Hill as our destination due to its position on the southern fringe of the real Outback. Early in its history, it was home to over 30,000 hardy souls enduring harsh conditions in this desolate place in the hope of making money working the mines. In the early years, Broken Hill produced gold and silver but the current minerals are lead, zinc, and silver. As to why someone would choose to be one of the 17,000 souls still living there. If it isn’t for a great job, I have no clue. Broken Hill got 35 mm of rain last year during the drought but this year there has only been 5 mm. Summer temperatures average in the low to mid 30’s but last January it hit 45 degrees.
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Mural Tells The Broken Hill Story
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Two Most Beautiful Aspects Of Broken Hill
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We checked into our heritage hotel, The Imperial. It is an old hotel filled with antiques and sports a large wraparound deck. Thankfully it has great air-conditioning and a very friendly host. We enjoyed our first outback beers and meals at the Astra on the main street.
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The Astra - Typical Of The Architecture In Broken Hill
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Our touring day involved a quick trip to the Railroad Museum, a drive out of town to the Dream Mine near Silverton, Silverton for lunch, a return to town to catch a tour of the Royal Flying Doctor operation and we finished the evening at the Royal Exchange restaurant.
The rail museum was a bit of a flyby because we were pressed for time but later in the day I had a chance to go down to the station to witness the arrival of the India Pacific, one of the most iconic trains in the world. It takes four days to travel from Perth on the Indian Ocean to Sydney on the Pacific. It was over 880 meters long and by what I saw peering at the inhabitants through the window, very luxurious.
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Arrived 5:30 pm - Scheduled 4:30 - Considered "On Time"
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Rail Car
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1950s First Class Travel
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Note Narrow Guage
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Built-in 1951 - Last Of The Streamliner Steamers
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A Lot Of Knobs To Turn
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1970's - Still Had "Smoking Car"
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Order Up!
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Our one hour fully-guided underground and surface tour of the old Dream Mine tour was lead by a crusty old knowledgeable miner as we crawled deep underground (and I mean hunched over, hands to the ceiling crawling) to see how the Cornish men and boys picked and shoveled the silver ore. The average life expectancy of the miners was around 30 years of age. This tour is not for the claustrophobic or mobility impaired. It is also the only site I have ever visited where hard hats were mandatory and that they were actually mandatory. I hit my head on the rocks so many times I worried about a concussion.
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13 Km Of Gravel Road Plus Gates To Get To Mine
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Down We Go
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Lunch was at the Silverton Hotel. Not so much a hotel as an oasis in the isolated, desolate ghost town. While I’m not a Mad Maxx movie fan, Mad Maxx 2 was filmed there. I had a beer and hotdog but couldn’t determine the mystery meat in the sausage. Pictures were taken, drinks were had.
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Silverton City Works Truck
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Lunch Spot - The Only Choice In Town
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Mystery Meat Hot Dog
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| Urinal Stickers |
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Great Stage For Country Music
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The Royal Flying Doctor tour is of the actual flying doctor base viewed in operation. The RFD is based all over south Australia but the home base is in Broken Hill where emergency care doctors and nurses are dispatched to the many isolated settlements in the outback. I actually remember watching a TV series in my childhood about the RFD and while our guide didn’t remember it (too young), a quick check of the records confirmed the series was filmed in 1959. Coincidently a new series comes is scheduled to come out the fall of 2020.
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Flying Doctor Hanger
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Another good night's sleep at the Imperial and we turn south to Mildura before turning east to Kiama to rejoin Gord and Margo.
A visit to the Australian Outback is a must but don’t plan to stay too long. If the heat, creatures and dust don’t get you, the flies will.
