Tuesday 5 March 2013

Bangkok - Day One


Bangkok is a huge city.  Twenty-two million people confined in 600 sqare miles of space.  The airport is 25 kms from our hotel in the city’s center.  Thankfully we had pre booked a driver to meet us at the airport.  We were too tired to think and thankfully he whisked us away to the hotel in an air-conditioned limo.

The Eastin Grand is very upscale, with an infinity pool on the fourteenth floor, its own stop on the BTS (Bangkok’s sky train), and within easy walking distance to many attractions.  Fortunately for us, “upscale” in Thailand doesn’t translate to “expensive” in Canadian dollars.  Bangkok is a city of contrast, huge modern, prosperous looking buildings sandwiched between broken-down, derelict, poverty filled abodes and shops.


Eastin Grand





Day one of our sightseeing began with a plan.  The all-inclusive breakfast was to serve as both breakfast and lunch.  It was fabulous with three food stations serving everything you could imagine.  Cereals, pastries, and different varieties of fresh fruits at one, nine cooks at the next preparing all the different meat groups and omelets cooked to your specifications, and an all-Asian fare buffet.  We had no difficulty satiating ourselves to last until the evening meal.

Off On Our First BTS


River Travel Through the City is Easy & Inexpensive


The actual sightseeing plan started well then quickly turned, but not in a bad way.  We bought our BTS One-day pass for unlimited use of the Sky train and our Chao Phraya Tourist Boat Pass for the same.  We made our way to the river Chao Phraya with the intention of accessing many sites.  The Grand Palace, home of Thailand’s Royal Family, was the initial target.   Upon arrival, a Tourist Policeman took us aside to warn us about pickpockets and overcharging drivers.  He also said the palace was closed at the time but that we were “lucky”.  The Royal Mausoleum was open for visitors.  He explained that it is only open one day a year for citizens to pray for the royal family.  He quickly tucked us into a Tuk Tuk, told the driver where to go and what to charge us and away we went.  Apparently you must be flexible in Thailand as well as India.

Tuk Tuks Waiting For You


The Royal Mausoleum is where generations of Royal ashes are interred.  The grounds have ornate crypts, beautiful gardens, surrounding the royal Buddhist Temple where the Royals pray for their ancestors.  We were the only tourists there.  They do not advertise their one-day opening per year.  The Minister in charge of the site met us and for the next two hours we were his personal guests and he was our personal tour guide.  At one point he sat us down on some benches, under a large shade tree and explained his life as a Buddhist and the role of Buddhism in Thailand.  As the curator of the site he was immensely proud of the art and architecture and went to great lengths to explain the meaning of all the precious stones that prevail in Buddhist art.  At one point our host’s boss, the Minister in charge of all the Royal sites of Bangkok, joined us and he too, proudly explained the history of the place and its impact on the city.  Both men were loyal monarchists and conveyed great love for the current King and his family.  A wise traveler once told us to expect plans to be waylaid but to also be open to even greater experiences.  We would put this experience down as testament to this fact.

The Whole Place Reeked of Serenity.


Our New Friend - The Minister-In-Charge (He had painted the door)

Royal Prayer Temple






The Buddha Weighs 800 kg of Pure Gold.


Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on your perspective), both men advised us about a little known shopping secret.  Thailand is world famous for its precious gems and stones.  Our hosts informed us that the Royal Lapidary Jewelry Co. was open to the public that very day.  It is only open to the public one day, every 33 years.  Both men had been there in the morning and purchased for their families.  The number “3” is the lucky number in Thailand so we had to go.  The minister arranged a taxi, walked us to the stand and said good-bye.  He started saying goodbye with a North American shaking of hands, moved to a Thai cupping of hands and bowing, then moved to a hug with a cheek brush, side to side.  If he had moved to kissing I may have had to deck him but I think he sensed it and stopped short.

We came away from the experience with a lot but most importantly we think we have the whole hand clasping, head bowing thing sorted out.  Hands looking like they are in prayer and bowing replace shaking hands.  The hands are brought together cupped; fingers touching but not palms – lotus style.  Clasped hands touch different parts of the person’s anatomy depending on who they are greeting:  1) hands are clasped with top fingers to top of forehead when acknowledging God, 2) touching top of nose for Royals, 3) the tip of the nose for parents, 4) under nose/lips for family, 5) under the chin for friends, and finally 6) middle of the chest for meeting people younger than you.  We now do #6 a lot.

The Royal Lapidary shopping experience was unique.  Normally open only to wholesalers, the company was celebrating it’s 33-year of opening.  We had our own sales person for the tour.  The Royal certifies each precious stone and this certification cannot be found elsewhere.  I won’t say how much money was spent but one of our party impressed the company so much they arranged the company car for us at the end of the tour to take us anywhere we wanted.  I asked permission to take pictures but was quickly surrounded and given a firm "no!"

So… in terms of sightseeing… we didn’t see anything we had on our list but all in all it was a great day!  Maybe tomorrow will bring different results.

We Never Tire of Different Sunsets.


The day closed with a fine traditional Thai meal at the Thanying restaurant located a short walk from the hotel.  The restaurant choice came as a recommendation from sister Rita who dinned there previously.

Early to bed to ready for Day Two.