Saturday 25 January 2014

Keys in the Cayes

We have enjoyed our stay in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Belize.  Ambergris Caye is only 40 kms in length and never more than 1.6 km wide.  San Pedro is also the only town on the island and is located at the southern end.  We never ventured further than 1 or 2 km either side of the village centre and only out about 1 km off shore to snorkel on the reef.  The Caye is protected by the Belize Barrier Reef, second in size only to the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.  The waters surrounding the island are as smooth as lake waters.  The waters are also the clear “Caribbean blue” one expects but there are numerous dark patches due to grass growing on the shallow bottom.



Signature Long Boat Docks


San Pedro is so small that the main mode of travel is golf cart.  Despite being a former British Colony (British Honduras), travel is on the right hand side of the road.  Roads are either landscape tiles or potholes inter spaced with small patches of gravel.  Tropic Air has an airstrip in the centre of the town and is serviced by 4-seaters from the mainland.

Hanging Around the Gas Pumps


Heavy Hauler - Ambergris Style


Saturday Afternoon Rush Hour


Note the Town Motto (Lower Left)



Travel Tip:  Most places are near enough to walk but torrential rains or heavy luggage may cause you to use a taxi.  Our experience tells us that there are some taxi drivers willing to rip you off.  We paid a taxi $57 Belize ($23.50 US), to go to the Palapa Bar, 2 kms north of town.  The cost included $6 US for a toll across a 30-meter bridge.  We met an honest driver the next day and he showed us a laminated fare list every taxi is supposed to carry, display, and follow.  The ride should have been $15 US and the driver should have absorbed the tolls (each way). Live and Learn.

Despite having only two sunny days, the experience still had many highlights.  Our hotel, Corona Del Mar, was older, a little tired, but the rooms were large, clean, and the beach was just outside the door.  Complimentary rum punch was served between noon and 6:30 pm.  The Crazy Canuck Bar was next door and if you like to start drinking before noon, you will have lots of company.  The meals were great everywhere we went and the seafood was exceptional.  When given the opportunity to eat octopus, crab, scampi-shrimp, grouper, conch, and lobster, Deborah said "to hell with her seafood allergies" and dove in.  Suffice to say, she is no longer allergic to seafood.  The town centre is old, not particularly well kept but full of activity with many bars sporting live music.  Jerry Jeff Walker (Gringo in Belize) was in town but his concerts were sold out.


Steps From the Door




The Corona Del Mar



Our Hotel Pool



We Ate Our Lunches on our Deck


Great Place to Drink in the Afternoon (or Morning)


Wednesday Afternoon Drop In Pickin


Fish (Snapper) and Chips - Caye Style


Fish Tacos


Lobster Risotto


Afternoon Beers at CC Bar


Oldies Dancing - Finished by 6 pm.



Small World Stuff:  As we were leaving Tulum on the bus, Deborah noticed a couple (Kathy & Cal) with Canadian flags on their luggage.  After some small talk we found that they were from Nelson, B.C.  Kathy had just retired and they were on a two-month trip to Tulum and Ambergris Caye.  We spoke again at the ferry dock in Chetumal.  It turned out that Cal and Kathy had lived in Kamloops from 1979 to 1985.  We told them we lived there from 1978 to 1985.  Cal looked at Deborah and said he though he recognized her.  It turned out they worked in the same offices with B.C. Forestry, back in the day. We exchanged emails and agreed to meet for dinner and drinks later on the island. Over a few drinks, we discovered their niece’s “significant other” played rugby on Canada’s National team with our son Bryn.  In fact, we had met Luke in Victoria while visiting our son.  They are a great couple and lots of fun to spend time with. We promised to keep in touch.  Small World.

Kathy, Cal, Deborah, George - Cal's Birthday



Certainly the foremost highlight for us was snorkelling on the reef. Our first stop was at the edge of the reef.  I can only describe the experience as what I would imagine it would be like to swim in the tropical fish tank at the Vancouver Aquarium.  At all times we were surrounded by amazing varieties of colourful fish. We saw green turtles and a somewhat rare Spotted Eagle Ray as well.  After about 40 minutes in the first spot we moved to a second to swim with the Rays and Sharks.  Fishermen dumping fish guts in the selected spot have created the area over many years. The Rays and the Nurse Sharks swim into the area as soon as they hear the motors of the tour boats.  Although Nurse sharks are harmless, it is still a little eerie to jump into the clear water with 6 to 8 foot sharks near enough to touch (if you like that sort of thing). A fabulous experience and well worth the $40 US fee each.

Picked Up by Afri At our Hotel Dock


Shark Feeding Time


Tuff Enuff Tours


Sharks Found Us Before We Found Them


Storm Coming In





We check out early tomorrow morning for the 80-minute fast ferry back to Chetumal, Mexico.  We have a flight later in the day to Mexico City.