Morelia

Virrey de Mendoza

We had a very quick two night stay in Morelia.  Morelia is the capital of the state of Michoacán. We boarded a bus in Guanajuato and experienced a very relaxing three hour journey to Morelia.  Our drive took us on a smooth riding freeway through rich farmlands and lakes. Farmers were busy tilling their fields while others were already rich in green crops of grain.  There were many lone fishermen on the lakes.

Agave Cactus Farm

Morelia was established in 1545 and the historic core is yet another UNESCO World Heritage site, cited for its colonial architecture.  From 1545 to 1828 it was known as Valladolid but the name was changed later after Morelia, a hero in the War of Independence.  Mexicans enthusiastically recognize their heroes from both the War of Independence in the early 1800’s and the Civil Revolutionary War in the early 1900’s.

Our hotel was the Virrey de Mendoza built in the colonial mode with a four story courtyard covered by a stained glass ceiling.  It’s doors opened onto the city’s central zocalo complete with fountains, trees, colourful gardens and walkways. 

Our Hotel From the Zocalo Fountain 

View From Our Hotel Window

Dining Room

Stained Glass from our 2nd Floor Balcony

Ceiling of Inner Courtyard

The night we arrived was Ash Wednesday and Valentine's Day.  The streets and Zocalo were packed with people.  Interestingly, we saw very few gringos in Morelia.  It seems to be a destination off the gringo tourist path.  We couldn’t get into a restaurant at 8:30 pm.  Many Christians could be seen strolling the streets with crosses marked on their foreheads.  We confess we didn't realize this was Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent.  Since it was also Valentine’s Day and Deborah’s Birthday, we thought the city’s zocalo was filled just for us.

View From Zocalo

My Valentine on Her Special Birthday

Morelia Cathedral - 1688

The main purpose of our trip was to visit the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary located in the pine covered Sierra Madre mountains about a 2.5 hour drive from Morelia. We had our hotel contact an English speaking tour guide, Eugenia Rivera from the “Mariposa Monarca”.  She was at the hotel to pick us up the next day at 9 am sharp.  We were joined by two Portuguese speaking ladies from Brazil, a Mexican couple, and a lone traveller from London.  Eugenia had her hands full translating but she managed just fine. 

The Monarch Butterfly

We also confess to not knowing the full story of the Monarch Butterfly Migration. Eugenia was very knowledgeable and kept referring to “the documents say…” when giving us the “facts”.  These butterflies migrate from the northern U.S. and Canada to overwinter in Mexico.  Eugenia admitted there are more than one “over wintering” locations but that the particular one we visited was by far the mostly highly concentrated.

The most interesting part of the story is that the specific butterflies we saw are not the same ones that return the next winter.  A Monarch Butterfly usually has a four month life.  Since they only fly at night it takes longer than the life of a butterfly to make the 4 to 5 thousand kilometre migration journey. 

The butterflies we saw in Mexico were born there.  They leave the site at the end of March en mass.  Along the way north the female will lay eggs and die.  The second generation will continue north and do the same.  It is likely that it is the third generation that will reach the northern summer grounds, depending on where in the northern U.S. or southern Canada it is.  She too will lay eggs and die.  By the time September comes around it will be the fourth generation that will make the trip south.  By a quirk of nature, the fourth generation lives more than twice as long as the previous three.  These are the ones who survive the long trip south and arrive in Mexico during the month of November.

Pine Covered Mountains

We Climbed

Way Up High

On A Very Winding Road

We Made It To the Reserve

By the time our van reached the Reserve located high in the Sierra Madres we had already climbed over a thousand metres from the valley floor.  After leaving the tour van it is a challenging 3 km climb comprised of stairs and rocky pathways.  The actual site is at 3600 metres elevation and one has to focus on breathing steadily as you climb.  The Portuguese women took advantage of the rental horses available for those finding the journey too arduous.  We made it after a solid hour of hiking.

You Could Ride a Horse - Didn't Check Weight Limit

When we finally arrived at the site (no more than the size of your local gym) we were greeted by pine trees that appear to be gold in colour.  Upon closer inspection we realized the orange colour was really masses of butterflies.  When the sun came out the wings started to flap and soon the entire area was alive with flying butterflies.  When the sun went behind a cloud they all retreated to their landing spots.  It is a wonder to see and the crowds of people stood in silence staring as if in a church to witness the event.

Caught Monarch Leaving Deborah's Shoulder

We finished the day with eats at a local comida and then reboarded the bus for the twisting journey back to the valley floor and the freeway trip home.

We had a nice evening in our hotel having drinks and listening to music in the inner courtyard.

Flew to Mexico City in the afternoon.