Madrid

We flew Vueling from Barcelona to Madrid and caught a taxi to the historic city centre.  We stayed at the Hostal Luz Madrid for three nights and were within walking distance of the major historical attractions.

The fixed price (30 E) taxi took us from the airport taxi queue directly to our door at #10 Fuentes Street.  The cabbie dropped us staring at a large double wooden door devoid of any markings. The Hostal Luz Madrid was nowhere to be found.  We tried ringing the buzzer to no avail.  Finally a man opened the door as he was leaving.  We asked him about the Luz and he said it wasn’t there.  He was staying at the Hostal Fuentes on the second floor.  Regardless, he let us in.  We then phoned the hotel and the lady answering couldn’t speak English but she was able to tell us she was looking at us on close circuit TV. and invited us up to the fourth floor and lo and behold, the Luz was there.  This happens a lot in these small, old city hotels.  This one was rated 8.8 on Trip Adviser.

The Elevator Size Was Similar to the Room

We dropped our bags in the room and headed out map in hand.  We were within 100 meters to the Mercado de San Miguel, the Real Theatre, Puerta del Sol (geographic centre of Madrid), the Royal Palace, Plaza Mayor, and the Cathedral de Almudena.  The streets were packed with people and the restaurants began filling after 9 pm.  

It has become increasingly difficult to come up with adjectives to describe these great European cities.  Descriptors seem to always reach a common pattern: great architecture, cathedrals, boulevards, plazas, restaurants, street entertainment, etc.  Not to diminish Madrid but to simply underscore, Madrid is everything the others are. We became very familiar with our neighbourhood during our four-day stay but were always surprised to discover a new little square (plaza) to enjoy tapas, beer, and to people watch.  There are things that stand out but one has to look closely to differentiate between the great cities.  I’ll try to hit on a few that we experienced and believe to be “must sees”.

Firstly is the Mercado de San Miguel.  It is an old iron framed building about a small city block in size.  Inside there are vendors serving every kind of tapas, from beef & fish, pastas to pastries and gelatos.  You buy beer or wine from a variety of vendors and then wander the market sampling tapas of all sorts.  We sampled: i) lasagna & empanada carne, ii) olives & dolmades & stuffed peppers, croquettes of iii) shrimp, iv) roquefort cheese, and v)spinach, then finished with vi) gelatos. 

The Mercado For Tapas

Just Shave A Little Off the Leg Please

Secondly, is the Hop-on/Hop-off bus tour.  We were up at the crack of 9 am and finished our café breakfast and coffee on the street by 11 am.  The hiking boots were brought out, the feet taped and off we went for a day of sightseeing.  We started with a hop-on-hop-off bus tour of the old city.  We could have walked but then we would not have known what we were looking at.  We had a great morning in the open air double-decker and saw more architecture than I can remember to relate here.  We were back at the hotel for a pit stop before the San Miguel tapas and then back on the bus to the art gallery. 

On The Bus

Peddle Powered, Keg Flowing, Cigarettes Smoking - Stag Madrid Style

Hopped Off For A Stroll

Real Madrid's Stadium - 70,000 Season Ticket Holders

One of the four main gates to the city.

Thirdly, is the Reina Sofie Modern Art Gallery.  We arrived at 3 pm expecting to get free admission (according to the guide book it was free after 2:30) only to find that that was last year.  We paid our 16 Euros and cursed the book.  We spent three hours wandering the exhibits.  We cannot truthfully say we were inspired by the art.  It was cool to see Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali’s work but we’re not sure we would want it hanging in our house.  I was most interested in the photograph collection depicting the revolution between 1936 and 1937.  The various photographers captured the misery, violence and despair.

No Pics in Sopie - Selfie with Gallery in Background

Fourthly was the Palacio Real Madrid. While touring a palace is a staple on many city tours, this one was special.  We agreed this was the “best ever”.  We spent three hours touring the various rooms.  While the royal family no longer lives there, it is still used on occasion and each room is set up as if a member of the royal entourage had just stepped out for a minute.  We think it is better than a visit to Versailles.

Harpist At Night In Front of Palace

Deborah dwarfed by Palace Light Standard

Fifthly, a visit to the Prado, Spain’s National Museum, is a must.  We spent over four hours there and only stopped because we reached culture overload.  By the end we were blowing by Rembrandt’s like they were graffiti on CN grain cars. 

We started with the main exhibition, El Greco.  We didn’t know much before but discovered that he was a great 17 Century Spanish artist that influenced a great many others.

The Permanent collection of the Prado comprises works of Italian, German, British, Flemish and French artists.  Deborah did her homework and we targeted, Goya, Velazquez, Patinir, Brueghel, Raphael, El Greco, Rubens and Rembrandt.  While I cannot say I am fully informed about the intricacies of the fine art produced by these guys, I can say Brueghel (and the works of his two sons) are my favourites.  I would have a Brueghel hang in my living room any day.

Strictly No Pics in Prado - Deborah In Garden Out Front

Lastly, there are the more everyday things.  One night we went for dinner at the Gran Cafe de Madrid restaurant and bar.  It is on the Calle Mayor, near the Mercado San Miguel. It has been in continuous operation as a bar/restaurant since 1873 and is a great place to watch a soccer game with the locals.  We arrived at 8 pm and had the pick of seats.  By 9 pm the place was packed and folks were turned away.  As well, there is shopping.  Apparently Madrid is the place to buy leather footwear.  Deborah found knee-high brown boots and she found me blue leather shoes.

Beer Always Goes Well With Football (Soccer)

They Love Their Meat in Spain

Deborah Got A Kiss From the Toreador Barman

A Cup of Wine With Lunch

P.S. We also learned a little more about the always confusing (in Europe) tipping policy.  We were advised at the Tourist Info Centre that there is and there is not, tipping.  On one hand, all workers are paid a good living wage and do not require tips to make a go of it.  On the other, if you feel you received exceptional service, go ahead and tip but don’t exceed 10%.

That’s it for now.  Off to Seville (Sevilla).