Thursday 16 January 2014

Tobago Cays and Bequia

Today we had a great day of sailing!  Around 9 am we very carefully crept out of the Tobago Cays, avoiding the reefs and then raised the main and the full jib.  Our course was just off north and headed for Bequia just off the main island of Saint Vincent.   For the next four hours we had a close reach wind just off our nose in 4 to 6 (closer to 6) foot waves.  Apart from our conversation the only sounds were the wind whistling through the rigging, the occasional groan of the ropes, and the splash of waters pushed aside by the bow.  Deborah took the helm for the majority of the journey only giving way to Glen when she thought we were on a collision course with other boats.  We arrived safely in Admiralty Bay, Port Elizabeth, Bequia, SVG around 1 pm and anchored in the bay.  This is to be our last landfall before walking the plank in SVG’s capital Kingston, just a short 6-mile jaunt across the strait from our current moorage.



First Mate Pam Relaxed and Enjoying the Ride


Deborah - Our Accomplished Helmsman




Approaching Bequia, SVG


Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay


Our View From Anchor







We are nearing the end of the sailing chapter of this trip.  Since our last entry we have explored Saline Bay, Saltwhistle Bay, and the Tobago Cays, all in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG).

We had a good walk-about in Saline Bay before we left.  There is an interesting old church at the top of the town with a fabulous 360-degree view of the surrounding waters.  We had a nice visit with a local lady on the beach selling t-shirts.  We asked her about prospects for young people on the island and she said they usually leave or end up like her, selling t-shirts.  From the 30 or 40 families on the island, she proudly mentioned that there are 5 young islanders in the British Army.  She said most people who leave don’t come back due to lack of opportunities.

From Top Of Saline - Saltwhistle Bay in Background


From Top of Saline Hill



Our next stop was just around the corner in Saltwhistle Bay.  We enjoyed a walk on the beach and a beer in the beach hut bar.  We had a bit of a rough night due to the rolling waters but it was interesting to watch Pam cook on her gimbaled stove with boiling pots staying level as the boat pitched from side to side.

Last (Only) Bar Before Jungle


Post Bar Long Walk Back to Dinghy


A Pirate Ship Passed By While We Were At Anchor




Another short jaunt brought us to the Tobago Cays.  The Tobago Cays are not to be confused with Tobago, the country.  The Cays are part of SVG.  It is a protected marine park where you can anchor and snorkel with the tropical fish and turtles in their natural habitat.  We met up with our new friends Gordon and Tina (on Calmos3) once again and joined them on their boat for sunset beers and appetizers.  We sat outside in a warm breeze, gently rocking under a full moon and a sky spilling over with stars.

Blue Waters of the Tobago Cays


Pam's Photo Underwater in the Cays



Sunset From The Cays


The Blue Pearl Under a Full Moon and Sunset




Just as our sailing journey is about to end, we think we are getting the “cruising rhythms” on the Blue Pearl figured out.  Morning usually happens for us around 8 am, sunrise for Pam, and some time in between for Glen.  Breakfast involves drinking coffee, reading the news, weather and emails on the Internet, before deciding what the day looks like.  If there is to be a morning activity it better take place early enough to avoid the noon hour beers preempting action.  Morning beers are known to happen if there is an exertion of any kind.  The afternoons involve napping, followed by swimming and dingy work to shore.  As 6:30 approaches, there is a move from beers to wine, G&T’s or scotch while wide-ranging discussions solve most of the world’s issues as the sun sets in the west.  Fabulous dinners follow below with more drinks and an occasional card game may break out.

We are not quite done and Bequia beacons us to explore (and do laundry).  We had a quick reconnaissance tour, bought vegetables from the Rastafarian Market and enjoyed beer and conch fritters at the Whaleboner Bar.


Beers and Conch Fritters


Real Whalebone Bar Stools



Miranda Will Have Our Laundry Done in the Morning



Deb and Their New Rasta Friends





Sightseeing of the island is planned for tomorrow.  Until then…