Monday, 13 January 2014

Carriacou, Grenada to Mayreau, Harbour Island, SVG

We have changed countries since our last write.  We enjoyed a relaxing day  on Carriacou; exploring a little of the beach front, swimming in Tyrrel Bay, eating a first class burger at the Slipway Restaurant while visiting Gary and Donna (Cruisers on Page One), Glen and Pam’s cruising friends since 1978.


Meat Market in Tyrrel Bay


Recommended Burger at the Slipway


Gary and Donna - Glen and Pam




Customs & Immigration - It Cost us $80 EC to Leave Grenada



The next morning we checked out of the country at Customs & Immigration, heaved anchor and set out to Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.  While the weather winds were not exactly in our favour we rounded the headland to Hillsborough and then crossed the sea to Clifton on Harbour Island, SVG.  While Captain Glen checked us in at Customs & Immigration, we wandered the short streets before settling in for a beer and a little free Internet catch up.

Approaching Clifton, Harbour Island, SVG


Enjoying the Sea and Sun


Searching For Anchorage in Clifton




New Flag to Fly - St. Vincent & The Grenadines


New Beers to Drink




First Mate Pam Finds the Best Place to Drop the Hook


Short Streets to Walk


Main Street, Clifton, Union Island, SVG


Found a Bar On a Reef - Surrounded by Water




Back on board, we made the short run to Saline Bay on Mayreau Island.  Again, the run was a little rough but with the staysail up, the Blue Pearl knifed through the waves and we averaged over 7 overall knots.  We arrived and anchored, with time for a good swim in the Bay before neighbours Gord and Tina from the UK and Germany, joined us for happy hour on the Blue Pearl.  They had sailed up from Uruguay and hoped to get to Martinique before the start of the hurricane season.

Saline Bay - SVG


First Stop - A Dip In The Sea



Up early tomorrow to hike into the nearby town before pulling anchor for places further north.

Sunday, 12 January 2014

Made It To Carriacou

Firstly, some leftovers from St. George’s:


Grand Anse Beach - Glen & Pam - but also where the Marines Landed in 1983



Glen - Smashing the Conch (Lambi) For Dinner





We made it!  We arrived at about 4 pm and are now safely anchored in Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.  We left St. George’s and motor-sailed the leeward side of Grenada.  For the most part the wind was just off our beam but when we lost the shelter of the island we were headed bow into the wind and faced large rollers.  The ride became unpleasant for some and Blue Pearl endured salty showers for most of the six hour, 31 nautical mile trip. 

Captain Glen Taking Us Out of the Harbour


Cruise Ship Arrives as we Leave


There were some concerns expressed before we left regarding seasickness.  Deborah and I donned our sea wristbands and Deborah added a single earplug.  Suffice to say that one of us enjoyed a few beers and even enjoyed a one-hour nap below decks but the most important thing is that no one got sick to their stomach.


It Was A Little Rough At Times



We experienced some tropical showers along the way but entered the bay and anchored under sunny skies.

Diamond Island - Along The Way


Approaching Tyrrel Harbour


Safely at Anchor



Sea Bands May Have Saved The Day




Our plan is to overnight in Tyrrel and then to continue north.


Thursday, 9 January 2014

A Day In St. George's

Fort George's On The Hill - Carenage on Right




Today was the day to explore St. George’s.  It isn’t a large place but full of history with forts dating back to the 18th century.  We motored across the harbour in the dinghy to the Carenage.  The name Carenage has its root in the word careenage, a word used to describe the act of careening ships to the shallows in order to get the boats high and dry enough to effect repairs.  While the careening doesn’t take place anymore it is a very convenient place to tie up the dinghy and explore the nearby streets.



A Little Tight When a Truck Rolls Through







Our initial target was the old British Fort.  We walked through the tunnel dividing the town and took a quick left to climb the hill to Fort George.  It was an easy walk and the rewards were the great views of the sea, harbour and surrounding hills.  For those used to all the trappings of a well-preserved museum piece, this fort does not fit in that category.  Much is left exposed to the elements and descriptive plaques are few but as it is, you still get a sense of what it must have been like back-in-the-day.  The Fort is where Maurice Bishop (and his pregnant wife) and cabinet were taken in 1983 before meeting their deaths by firing squad.  We were told some of the bullet holes are still in the walls but we didn’t find them.  There is also an old French fort perched on the hill overlooking the town but that will have to be for another day.









Looking Across to Port Louis - Our Marina




We had a short walk around the town and lunched at Deyna’s, a small eatery across from the bus terminal.  Deyna's served authentic Grenadian food and caters mostly to locals.  Even though each cruise ship brings nearly 3000 tourists, at least three times a week, places like Deyna’s see few tourists as most folks eat on board.  Meals were about $8 each.  Deborah chose the traditional Grenadian dish called Oil Down and Pam chose Lambi (conch in other places) and everyone enjoyed their meals.


Oil Down



After a further short walk about we enjoyed Soursop smoothies for desert.  Soursop is a green fruit that resembles a knobby pear reknowned for its cancer-fighting properties



The large outdoor market was under repair but we still managed a short walk around the produce market and to make a few deals.

The Royal Grenadian Police Force



Pigeon Peas and Turmeric




Pam Finds a Breadfruit



Our last stop was the National Museum.  We were lucky to get a guided tour for our $5 EC admission.  Our guide was originally from the U.K. but has lived in Guyana and Grenada for the last 44 years.  I think she thought we were Americans because she wanted to emphasisze to us the great benefits Cuba bestows on Grenada through the supply of doctors, nurses and teachers.  She was passionate about her subject matter and well practised in her delivery.  For the price, it is well worth the tour.







Measures Left Over From The Spice Trade


So Passionate - She Followed Us Onto the Street





Back to the boat, more pool time until happy hour, and another day in paradise concluded.