Falmouth and English Harbours

It was a short but bumpy ride from Carlisle to Falmouth Harbour.  Bumpy is a bit of an understatement.  It was into the wind with gusts of 30+ km/hr.  Both Jinder and I were both thrown to the deck on two separate occasions.  Jinder took a slight leg injury while my roll of insulation protected me from harm.  Lunch making was out of the question.

We anchored in Falmouth Harbour out of the rolling seas but still in the howling wind.  The wind is with us a few more days and scheduled to abate just after Jinder returns home and the girls arrive.

Falmouth Harbour is filled with cruising yachts.  According to “The Cruising Guide To The Leeward Islands”, Antigua is the winter home of many of the gold-plated character yachts of sail and power and is the main base for yachts in the entire Caribbean.

Almost immediately next-door is English Harbour.  It is almost literally one harbour except for about 200 meters of land separating the two.  Both were recognized as potential strategic harbours in the early 1700’s with English Harbour’s Nelson (after the Admiral) Dockyard completed as it stands today in 1745.

After lunch on the boat it was a dingy ride to shore to have a quick tour of the Nelson Dockyards and a cold beer at the Breezeway shops.  The small village is really just a series of food stands, car rentals, and marine related businesses.  We had forgotten it was Good Friday and most were closed. 

The Pillars Supported the Sail Loft Floor Where Sails were Stored

Back to the boat we went, toasted each other at sunset and enjoyed yet one more of Jinder’s gourmet meals.  Our team has bonded very well.  Captain Glen is the Chief at sea (and Bartender at anchor), Jinder is the Chef, and I am the Cleanliness Engineer post meal.

It was a bit of a wild night with rain squalls and gusts that kept the rigging singing throughout the night.

Next day it was early and onshore for a hike by 10 am.  We dinghied in and walked to the Middle Ground Trail at Pigeon Beach, Falmouth Harbour.  The hike isn’t long and the rocky trail takes you to breathtaking views of both harbours.  It ends at English Harbour and the Dockyards.  We bought a few cold beers and sat on a bench under the trees and enjoyed the marina’s mega yacht scene.

Falmouth Harbour

Must Watch For Cactus Catching Your Ankles

English Harbour

It was past lunchtime and we wandered to Betty’s lunch stand on the main (and only) road.  Betty served the lunch of rice, Dumplings, BBQ ribs, goat soup, and Decana for dessert.  We were thoroughly entertained by five-year old Spencer as we ate our lunch.  We learned that Decana is eaten on Good Friday because local tradition demands that only bloodless foods be eaten.

Our New Best Friend 5-Year Old Spencer

After lunch it was back to the boat for an afternoon nap and then up again at 3 to dinghy over to Pigeon Beach for a swim before dinner.

We enjoyed our last Jinder gourmet.  Unfortunately Jinder has to return to the real world and go back to work.  It will be difficult for us but we will find away to manage.

The next morning we were up early and on shore to rent a car to do some touring and deposit Jinder at the airport by noon.  It was up to Shirley Heights for yet more spectacular views and then a slow drive to the airport taking in the sights.

English In Front - Falmouth Behind - From Shirley Heights

Sailing to Carlisle Bay

Carlisle Bay

We pulled up anchor and left Deep Bay for a cruise down to Carlisle Bay, located just a few nautical miles west from Falmouth.  Sailing south on the leeward side of the island country was serene.  With the sun shining and the wind coming from the east it was smooth sailing with the main and staysail.  That is until we had to “turn left” at the southern end of the leeward side and into the wind we went.  The sails were dropped and Yan Diesel was put into action.  Captain Glen told us, “it’s going to be a rough hobby horse ride for the next while”.  Into the wind we went bucking (and a little twisting).  The onshore scenery included the many resorts that dot the coastline of this tourist paradise. 

Despite the boat’s actions, Jinder volunteered to go below, (ignoring possible seasickness) to once again prepare a gourmet meal for lunch.  The fragrance of frying onions sound started to make it way from below.  The onions were a perfect compliment to our smokies engulfed in a bed of horseradish mayonnaise rucked up in a Jolly Harbour bakery bun.  Served with dill pickles and beer the roughest part of the trip was most bearable.

Just a few miles short of Falmouth we deked into Carlisle Bay and anchored right in front of the Carlisle Bay Resort.  Much to our pleasant surprise the resort sent us strong free Wi-Fi signal. 

After setting the ship right and soaking up our tech time, we set out to explore.  We left Murphy on the beach and walked up the only road in the place.  First stop was a “sortof” restaurant.  They were preparing an island dish called Ducana (coconut, flour, & potatoes), to be served the next day.  Further down the road we found a fruit stand/gambling den.  We observed but didn’t participate in the cash dominoes game but did buy some pineapple and mangoes to supplement the ships stores.

Fruits & Vegetables (and Gambling Den Behind the Tarp

She Was Happy to See Us

End of Beach and Back Walk - the Extent of our Exercise

 We took a walk down the beach and contemplated stepping into the bar but had second thoughts when we saw the resort prices.  We decided against a the beer in favour of a swim in the sea and then back to the boat for a nap in preparation for cocktails, grilled pork chops and bean salad.

We ended the night by taking turns choosing songs from our respected devices.  Each song had to be prefaced with a short description of why it meant something to you.

Because Carlisle Bay has a small tidal surge, our night’s sleep was akin to being gently rocked in a cradle.

Off to Falmouth today.

Deep Bay and St. John's

Despite the fact we have done very little, we have had a busy couple of days.  We had a very good first night on the boat.  Maybe we consumed a little too much rum but enjoyed a solid eight hours of sleep gently rocking in Hermitage Bay, Five Islands Harbour.

We were up at the crack of 8 am ready for the day.  After a hearty breakfast and an hour or two reading the news via the free Wi-Fi floating across the bay from the Hermitage Bay Resort, we created a grocery list and headed back to Jolly Harbour for shopping.

Re-entering Jolly Harbour

A Few Shabby Homes On the Way In.

The grocery store was well provisioned except for fresh fruit.  We decided to stock up for the seven days until the girls arrive.  In addition to some chicken and sausage, we thought 4 dozen beer, 10 bottles of wine and a couple of rums would see us through.

We Drew The Line At Chicken Feet

We Needed A Little Help With Transport

Back to the boat, a walk on the beach, a late lunch, and an afternoon beer set the table nicely for a nap before sunset.   That was followed by grilled pork chops and a fresh chilled Sauvignon Blanc for dinner before finishing the day with hours of conversation solving the world’s problems.

The next day we woke to some wind with heavy gusts.  It was a great day to sail.  Captain Glen planned to sail us around the corner from Five Islands to Deep Bay.  The plan was to take a circuitous route to add to the excitement of the sail.  It wasn’t going to be a full (all sails) day.  Previously the Genoa (or jib) sail had separated from its connecting eye and was unusable.  It was furled around the bow rigging.  After clearing the bay (and avoiding a reef) we hoisted the main sail and the staysail.  We were just starting to fly through the waves when Captain Glen’s face took on a look of grave concern.  Not knowing exactly what was happening he peered over the cockpit only to see that the jib sailed had unfurled and was flapping in the wind.  It was whipping itself against the steel rigging like a sinner self-flaggellating back in medieval times.  With all the loose sail in the wind, the boat was confused at best.  It wasn’t a case of simply running to the bow to lasso it.  It was cracking like a whip in the wind and could have caused serious harm to anyone seeking to intercede.  We turned into the wind toward shore seeking shelter in the lee of the island.  Yan Diesel was running full out straining as we made for safety.  We finally escaped the wind, and with Jinder at the wheel, Glen was finally able to wrestle the sail to the deck in a manner that would have made a rodeo cowboy proud.

With the excitement over we managed to chug into Deep Bay for a well needed and deserved cocktail, and some lunch.

The afternoon activities proved to be much less exciting but most enjoyable just the same.  We hiked up to Fort Barrington.  It was a battery (cannons) and lookout during Admiral Nelson time in the 1700’s.  This area was controlled by Britain until late in the last century.  Drivers still use the British form of driving on the left.  The short scramble up the rocky trail afforded us a fabulous view of the city of St. John’s (the capital of capital of Antigua and Barbuda), the open Atlantic and Deep Bay.  After posing for a few pictures it was back down and a beach walk to a beach bar for ginger beer rums and a dip in the Deep Bay.

Our Target Destination Was In Sight

Through the Mangroves

Past the Bridge

I Think It Was This Way?

Stopped For A Pic (and Rest)

Made It

Cannon Ball Room

St. John's

Deep Bay Beach

Our Second Target - Beach Bar

Ginger Rums In Sight

Murphy the Dinghy ferried us back to the Blue Pearl and we settled in for another gourmet meal prepared by Jinder and a few more cocktails enjoying another Caribbean sunset.

An Unexpected Guest in the Bay

Off To Antigua

Well this is different!  I’m off on an adventure without Deborah (at least initially).  This first 2016 blog entry is being written from the galley of the Blue Pearl, at anchor in Hermitage Bay, Antigua.  This was not something we had planned, nor did it take a long time to hatch.

Our winter plan mostly comprised staying close to home and using our skis more extensively than recent years.  We have enjoyed ski days at Grouse, Baker, Red, and Big White and then we received an invitation we couldn’t refuse. 

Over a few drinks with Pam (home from the boat for a visit while Glen did some boat repairs) she suggested that Jinder and I go down together to visit Glen on the Blue Pearl (http://www.thebluepearl.ca/p/about-us.html) .  The suggestion was made on Sunday night and by Tuesday, tickets were bought and here we are a week later.

Deborah will join us in about a week's time.  She and Pam will fly down together and replace Jinder who must return to his real life as a working man.

But before I get ahead of myself there were a few lessons learnt along the way.

Lesson One

I bought the airline ticket on Tuesday and on Thursday morning I woke up in a panic because I had forgotten where I put my passport at the end of last year.  Relieved I found it in one of my many secure storage sports in the house but when I opened it panic set in again.  It was two months out of date.  It expired in January.  At that point I had one and part of one business day before I was scheduled to fly.  On to the Internet and then off to the Surrey passport office hoping to get an expedited issuance. 

By the time I got to the front of the line it was 2 pm.  First off, I failed to bring a paper copy of my airline ticket to prove my urgency (apparently a must).  Thankfully the clerk accepted my phone’s email notice (but she was clear in stating she didn’t have to).  She said the most critical part of the urgent process were my references.  I used my cousin Randy.  Mistake.  Although the forms don’t state it, you cannot use a relative for a reference.  My second was friend Mike.  What I also didn’t know was that your reference must be available by a phone for the 24 hours of the urgent application process.  Mike was in Costa Rica.  I could feel my blood pressure rise.  I phone Jinder but he was on the golf course and the cell reception was bad.  I phoned Jim and he was just home from the course and willing to wait by the phone.  I phoned Glen (Chilliwack Glen) and he was driving to the ski mountain but would be in cell range (maybe).  The clerk told me to go home and hope security made contact with them and return the next day).  I left but not with confidence it was going to happen. 

At 2 pm Friday I had a new passport.  First lesson learned.  You can get a passport in 24 hours but the price is an extra $100 and way too much stress.

Lesson Two

As usual, I bought a one-way ticket.  One-way tickets provide the flexibility for both the return date and route.  It is always what we have done in our retirement travels.  I bought the ticket from the Air Canada website and checked in on line Sunday morning.  The boarding passes didn’t print but we had been having printing problems the last few weeks so I decided to proceed to the airport and print them out at an AC kiosk.

When I got the airport it still refused to print.  I went to the counter where I was informed by a polite AC service rep that Air Canada was refusing to let me board the plane and their system had a block on printing my boarding passes.  It seems that despite selling me a one-way ticket to Antigua, it is illegal to enter Antigua without a return ticket.  The only solution was to buy a return ticket at the counter (for the highest possible price) and they would let me board.  So I shelled out the $1000 for a one-way return ticket and on the plane I went.  They assured me that I would be able to cancel within the first 24 hours after purchase but the clock was ticking from the exact time of purchase.  The attendant told me that I would have no problem cancelling at the airport in Antigua, once I had cleared immigration with my return in hand. 

It looked very cold in Montreal on a stop over!

It all sounded convoluted but workable until I landed and discovered there is no Air Canada reservation/customer service office in Antigua.  Air Canada does not have a presence of any kind in the country.  Without a phone I resorted to Gmail phoning home to Deborah begging for help.  Fortunately she was able to get through to Air Canada and the return ticket was cancelled without penalty fees before the 24 ticking clock expired.

With those things behind me it was a relief to see Jinder walk out of immigration from his separate flight and then to see Glen in Jolly Harbour waiting for the two of us to exit the taxi.  On to Murphy the dingy and soon we were sipping beers on the deck of the Blue Pearl watching our first Caribbean sunset in what is surely going to be a great get away.

Drive from Airport - Sugarcane au Natural

Brightly Painted Houses 

Jolly Harbour

Blue Pearl

Murphy the Dingy at Your Service

Beach Walk Hermitage Bay

Blue Pearl at Anchor

Margarita Time

First Caribbean Sunset