Falmouth and English Harbours

It was a short but bumpy ride from Carlisle to Falmouth Harbour.  Bumpy is a bit of an understatement.  It was into the wind with gusts of 30+ km/hr.  Both Jinder and I were both thrown to the deck on two separate occasions.  Jinder took a slight leg injury while my roll of insulation protected me from harm.  Lunch making was out of the question.

We anchored in Falmouth Harbour out of the rolling seas but still in the howling wind.  The wind is with us a few more days and scheduled to abate just after Jinder returns home and the girls arrive.

Falmouth Harbour is filled with cruising yachts.  According to “The Cruising Guide To The Leeward Islands”, Antigua is the winter home of many of the gold-plated character yachts of sail and power and is the main base for yachts in the entire Caribbean.

Almost immediately next-door is English Harbour.  It is almost literally one harbour except for about 200 meters of land separating the two.  Both were recognized as potential strategic harbours in the early 1700’s with English Harbour’s Nelson (after the Admiral) Dockyard completed as it stands today in 1745.

After lunch on the boat it was a dingy ride to shore to have a quick tour of the Nelson Dockyards and a cold beer at the Breezeway shops.  The small village is really just a series of food stands, car rentals, and marine related businesses.  We had forgotten it was Good Friday and most were closed. 

The Pillars Supported the Sail Loft Floor Where Sails were Stored

Back to the boat we went, toasted each other at sunset and enjoyed yet one more of Jinder’s gourmet meals.  Our team has bonded very well.  Captain Glen is the Chief at sea (and Bartender at anchor), Jinder is the Chef, and I am the Cleanliness Engineer post meal.

It was a bit of a wild night with rain squalls and gusts that kept the rigging singing throughout the night.

Next day it was early and onshore for a hike by 10 am.  We dinghied in and walked to the Middle Ground Trail at Pigeon Beach, Falmouth Harbour.  The hike isn’t long and the rocky trail takes you to breathtaking views of both harbours.  It ends at English Harbour and the Dockyards.  We bought a few cold beers and sat on a bench under the trees and enjoyed the marina’s mega yacht scene.

Falmouth Harbour

Must Watch For Cactus Catching Your Ankles

English Harbour

It was past lunchtime and we wandered to Betty’s lunch stand on the main (and only) road.  Betty served the lunch of rice, Dumplings, BBQ ribs, goat soup, and Decana for dessert.  We were thoroughly entertained by five-year old Spencer as we ate our lunch.  We learned that Decana is eaten on Good Friday because local tradition demands that only bloodless foods be eaten.

Our New Best Friend 5-Year Old Spencer

After lunch it was back to the boat for an afternoon nap and then up again at 3 to dinghy over to Pigeon Beach for a swim before dinner.

We enjoyed our last Jinder gourmet.  Unfortunately Jinder has to return to the real world and go back to work.  It will be difficult for us but we will find away to manage.

The next morning we were up early and on shore to rent a car to do some touring and deposit Jinder at the airport by noon.  It was up to Shirley Heights for yet more spectacular views and then a slow drive to the airport taking in the sights.

English In Front - Falmouth Behind - From Shirley Heights