The Biking Bit

We thought that bicycling on Prince Edward Island would be easy but we were wrong.  Anyone who says that P.E.I. is flat is a fecking liar.  It looks flat on a map and from the air before landing, but it is not!  The abandoned rail lines, turned cycling trails are no more than two degrees slope but they are either going up or going down.  When you leave the trails to get to where you need to go, it is all hills and dales.  Not mountains but long kilometre stretches of “up”. 

On the positive side, we lucked out with the weather.  It was cold and wet for most of the spring before our arrival.  Our cabbie said it was 4 degrees when he got up Saturday morning but it was twenty-five when he picked us up at 5:30 pm.  It has been sunshine and warm temperatures for our three rides.  We won’t talk about the winds that can be taxing, depending on the direction of travel.

Also on the positive, we have cycled extensively in British Columbia, Arizona, California and Italy but we have never encountered drivers as bicycle aware and courteous as those of Prince Edward Island.  When a trail intersects a busy highway, the drivers spot you before you see them and come to a stop before you can.  Even transport trucks slow down as they pass you on the road.  We rode the streets of Charlottetown as if we owned them and cars/drivers gave way at all times.

We had three very good rides during our days in Charlottetown.  On Day One we headed out to Brackley Beach National Park, Day Two to Mount Mellick, and Day Three to Canoe Cove.  What makes a ride “good” is the quality of the surface, the views along the way and the destination.

Brackley Beach was ambitious for our first ride.  It was recommended by many locals and involved parts of the Confederation Trail and some secondary roads.  Folks told us it was about thirty kilometres out and the same back.  Our trip covered over eight-three kilometres.  We burned up almost five km just finding our way out of the city.  When we did find the trail we went the wrong way until we hit the ocean.  We were at the 6.5 km mark before we started.  The trail was easy riding and was comprised of hard packed fine gravel.   There were openings to see some farms and houses but most of the trail had treed border cover.  Great for shade and as a wind break but obstructive to the beautiful views of the farms of P.E.I.  Our route also included riding on the road and there was spectacular scenery.  As we cycled into the national park we were pleased to be waved straight through.  Cyclists have free use of national parks in Canada.  We reached our target of Richard’s Fish & Chips on the only dock in the park.  The food was plentiful but maybe a “heavy” choice before the long ride back.  We took a slightly different route back and were witness to some fabulous homes on the waters edge.  We got back to Charlottetown at around 6 pm and enjoyed our “stinky beers” at a patio bar just up the street from Eden Hall.  “Stinky beers” are required consumption before anyone is allowed to head to their rooms and shower.

Fresh Fish & Lobster on the Dock

Day Two’s ride to Mount Mellick (a misleading name since it is an actual lowland area) started great but had its issues.  We packed picnic supplies and a bottle of wine to share.  We crossed the main bridge out of town and rode north/east.  We got lost at about the ten km mark.  After riding a loop and finding ourselves at the same spot we recalibrated and headed out on Highway One until we found the Trans Canada trail heading east.  We rode to a nice spot and enjoyed our picnic at about the 25 km mark.  After the food and wine, a few of our party decided to head back while the rest of us forged on.  We went to around the 35 km mark and then left the trail and headed out on Highway One for the return home.  We stopped at the liqueur store and picked up cold beers for our “stinkies” on the deck of Eden Hall.  The total ride was about 75 kms.

Phil & Linda

Warren & Dianne

Lunch Stop

Day Three’s ride to Canoe Cove was great.  It was an all road ride and our target was to get to the water’s of the Northumberland Straight.  It was all hills and dales but good bike paths most of the ways.  The hills proved too strenuous for a few of our party and they had to take a break while the rest of us continued on.  Canoe Cove is the quintessential P.E.I. seaside area with farms and summerhouses to the waters edge.  After a few pics and a bathroom break we headed home (with one stop at Cows outlet for the world (PEI) famous Cows ice-cream cones.  We cruised back into town at around 3 pm, after 56 kms ridden.

Deborah Couldn't Resist

We grabbed a late lunch at the Downtown Deli just up the street from Eden Hall.  The food was great and the service was outstanding.  After our meal we enquired about getting sandwiches for our next-day ride.  We planned to leave at 10 am but they didn’t open until 11 am.  We asked to have them made at the time and that we would take them with us.  They said that would be too long to be left sitting.  They informed us they would come in early and have our order ready at 10 am.  This kind of reaction and service is typical of the accommodating and friendliness of the folks we have met in PEI.

Tomorrow is moving day.  We are riding to Summerside to stay for a few days and get the Anne of Green Gables out of the systems of those that have it.

We had planned to ship our bags by bus for $9 per bag (12 bags). It was to be a bit of a bag-drag between B&B’s and the Bus Depot but better than the alternative of bringing panniers and packs. When the Eden Hall folks became aware of our plan they soon had a better one.  Now our plan is to pay the morning receptionist’s second cousin, twice removed, university student relative a flat fee of $50 to take our bags to Summerside, door to door, from one B&B to the other.  More outstanding hospitality!

There will be another Blog entry if I survive the ride.