We thought that bicycling on Prince Edward
Island would be easy but we were wrong.
Anyone who says that P.E.I. is flat is a fecking liar. It looks flat on a map and from the air
before landing, but it is not! The
abandoned rail lines, turned cycling trails are no more than two degrees slope
but they are either going up or going down. When you leave the trails to get to where you need to go, it
is all hills and dales. Not
mountains but long kilometre stretches of “up”.
On the positive side, we lucked out with the
weather. It was cold and wet for
most of the spring before our arrival.
Our cabbie said it was 4 degrees when he got up Saturday morning but it
was twenty-five when he picked us up at 5:30 pm. It has been sunshine and warm temperatures for our three
rides. We won’t talk about the
winds that can be taxing, depending on the direction of travel.
Also on the positive, we have cycled extensively
in British Columbia, Arizona, California and Italy but we have never
encountered drivers as bicycle aware and courteous as those of Prince Edward
Island. When a trail intersects a
busy highway, the drivers spot you before you see them and come to a stop
before you can. Even transport
trucks slow down as they pass you on the road. We rode the streets of Charlottetown as if we owned them and
cars/drivers gave way at all times.
We had three very good rides during our days in
Charlottetown. On Day One we
headed out to Brackley Beach National Park, Day Two to Mount Mellick, and Day
Three to Canoe Cove. What makes a
ride “good” is the quality of the surface, the views along the way and the
destination.
Brackley Beach was ambitious for our first
ride. It was recommended by many
locals and involved parts of the Confederation Trail and some secondary
roads. Folks told us it was about
thirty kilometres out and the same back.
Our trip covered over eight-three kilometres. We burned up almost five km just finding our way out of the
city. When we did find the trail
we went the wrong way until we hit the ocean. We were at the 6.5 km mark before we started. The trail was easy riding and was comprised
of hard packed fine gravel.
There were openings to see some farms and houses but most of the trail
had treed border cover. Great for
shade and as a wind break but obstructive to the beautiful views of the farms
of P.E.I. Our route also included
riding on the road and there was spectacular scenery. As we cycled into the national park we were pleased to be
waved straight through. Cyclists
have free use of national parks in Canada. We reached our target of Richard’s Fish & Chips on the
only dock in the park. The food
was plentiful but maybe a “heavy” choice before the long ride back. We took a slightly different route back
and were witness to some fabulous homes on the waters edge. We got back to Charlottetown at around
6 pm and enjoyed our “stinky beers” at a patio bar just up the street from Eden
Hall. “Stinky beers” are required
consumption before anyone is allowed to head to their rooms and shower.
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Fresh Fish & Lobster on the Dock
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Day Two’s ride to Mount Mellick (a misleading
name since it is an actual lowland area) started great but had its issues. We packed picnic supplies and a bottle
of wine to share. We crossed the
main bridge out of town and rode north/east. We got lost at about the ten km mark. After riding a loop and finding
ourselves at the same spot we recalibrated and headed out on Highway One until
we found the Trans Canada trail heading east. We rode to a nice spot and enjoyed our picnic at about the
25 km mark. After the food and
wine, a few of our party decided to head back while the rest of us forged
on. We went to around the 35 km
mark and then left the trail and headed out on Highway One for the return
home. We stopped at the liqueur
store and picked up cold beers for our “stinkies” on the deck of Eden Hall. The total ride was about 75 kms.
Day Three’s ride to Canoe Cove was great. It was an all road ride and our target
was to get to the water’s of the Northumberland Straight. It was all hills and dales but good
bike paths most of the ways. The
hills proved too strenuous for a few of our party and they had to take a break
while the rest of us continued on.
Canoe Cove is the quintessential P.E.I. seaside area with farms and summerhouses
to the waters edge. After a few
pics and a bathroom break we headed home (with one stop at Cows outlet for the
world (PEI) famous Cows ice-cream cones.
We cruised back into town at around 3 pm, after 56 kms ridden.
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Deborah Couldn't Resist
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We grabbed a late lunch at the Downtown Deli just
up the street from Eden Hall. The
food was great and the service was outstanding. After our meal we enquired about getting sandwiches for our
next-day ride. We planned to leave
at 10 am but they didn’t open until 11 am. We asked to have them made at the time and that we would
take them with us. They said that
would be too long to be left sitting.
They informed us they would come in early and have our order ready at 10
am. This kind of reaction and
service is typical of the accommodating and friendliness of the folks we have
met in PEI.
Tomorrow is moving day. We are riding to Summerside to stay for
a few days and get the Anne of Green Gables out of the systems of those that
have it.
We had planned to ship our bags by bus for $9
per bag (12 bags). It was to be a bit of a bag-drag between B&B’s and the
Bus Depot but better than the alternative of bringing panniers and packs. When
the Eden Hall folks became aware of our plan they soon had a better one. Now our plan is to pay the morning
receptionist’s second cousin, twice removed, university student relative a flat
fee of $50 to take our bags to Summerside, door to door, from one B&B to
the other. More outstanding
hospitality!
There will be another Blog entry if I survive
the ride.
